Thursday, December 30, 2010

2011 WISHFUL THINKING






There are many stylish changes that one can wish for in the coming year. So, let’s see what might hopefully change in the coming year when we have a look at streets of where we live, watch TV, catch up on the celebrity news or find when we go shopping.
One would think that with all the hair salons that we would see men and women with great haircuts and women who find it necessary to wear a spot of makeup to improve their looks. Instead we have hair that looks like it was cut with a food processor and either no makeup or so much that you like Snooki. Somewhere there is a happy medium for both, not to mention that one should try to look their numerical age and not the age they wish they were.
In keeping with appearances, let’s think of how many young people and older ones as well, who have decided that God gave them blank skin so that they could be walking, living sketch pads. Has anyone taken the time to realize that getting a tribal tattoo at 25 doesn’t quite hold the same allure on a 60 year old whose skin has begun to sag? People need to think beyond the single moment when the whim hits.
Let’s have a look at some style hints for 2011. Wearing clothes that do not fit properly do not make you look thinner or sexier. Wearing clothes that are barely held together by a few threads, does not make you look hipper or “down with it” or whatever phrase comes to mind. Women looking like sausages in weenie skins are not sexy whether you are 17 or 70….get a size that fits. Every store has mirrors…use them!! Men wearing shrunken clothes look like they are still trying to wear their clothes from when they were passing into puberty. It is not becoming on anyone no matter what your age and no matter how much you spend crafting the look.
Continuing on with my hopeful changes for the sartorially and cosmetically challenged in the year 2011, let’s talk shoes and stockings (pantyhose). It seems that editorially speaking and in real life, pantyhose/stockings, used to be an essential element of being well dressed and well groomed. This seemingly small “must” has all but disappeared. Stores like Macy’s, Bloomingdales, Bergdorf’s, Barneys and all the rest you can think of, had hosiery counters if not departments…all gone! ; not to mention every drug store.
As an observer of fashion, it seems that women today have forgotten what it is like to be well groomed and have instead opted for the easy way out. Yes, going without hose of any kind is indeed a less costly path for everyday dressing but there is more at stake than just finances. One might take into consideration that stockings may just cover the legs but they are indeed an amazingly erotic weapon. Panty hose does more than just cover the legs; they hold you in from waist to toe for a clean smooth look that cannot be otherwise achieved. The major plus is that you look finished. Kim Khardashian is not a classy girl just a wannabe with a giant ass and cleavage who will do anything to get her picture taken : thusly not a role model.
Shoes for men and women have taken a hit in the past 2 decades as the unrivaled winners in this classification have to be flip flops and sneakers of all varieties. Guys, it is really not ok to wear a suit or sport coat with athletic shoes unless you are under 21. Ladies, no it is not ok to wear flip flops to the office at any time of year for any number of reasons including cleanliness. Also ladies, do not believe that the higher the heel the better you look as so many may have already learned, there is an art to walking properly in stilettos and that goes for platforms as well.
Lastly, let’s have a look at that “scruffy” look that seems to have swept this world, country, state and city by storm. Guys, for the most part, look dirty and unkempt as they think it is a license to not shave…..ever! In case anyone is interested, it takes work to keep up the casual scruffy look of lets say…………Hugh Jackman.
The deal is this, why doesn’t everyone take a long hard look in the mirror and resolve to change at least one of the mentioned afflictions for the New Year? If you want to help the economy, then help the every department store and retail stores in your home town….buy good shoes, wear stockings a few times a week, get a shave and look like you really are going somewhere important even if you are not. Since we can never have a do over for a first impression, make people notice how you have decided to present yourself for 2011.

Wednesday, December 22, 2010

CHRISTMAS WISH(ES)








Somehow with all the events of everyday life becoming more stressful, is it possible that our Christmas Wishes became more realistic? The time between Thanksgiving and Christmas used to be a time pregnant with possibilities of good times, wonderful gifts, both given and received, and just about a month that seemed a whole lot more care free than the other 11 months.

In honor of both sides of the coin, let’s have a look at what those wishes might be.

One might simply wish for a white Christmas (“just like the ones we used to know”), or a “cottage” by the sea in Newport, a yacht like Paul Allen’s, a diamond watch, an Hermes Kelly bag in Croco, a made to order couture gown or suit, a diamond and emerald necklace or maybe just oodles of money that you can spend as you please on yourself and everyone else you know and never worry if there will be more.
On the flip side, wishing for a less dysfunctional government, a news day without any political or cultural zealots (including Sarah Palin), a 3% unemployment rate, more time to spend with your family and friends without worries, a cure for Cancer and all diseases, less days felled with news of disasters and death, and just maybe a month or so of “happy news” rather than all the bad news we get barraged with on a daily basis.

Whichever you wish for, whatever your combination, let’s just hope that this year you do get what you wish for, no matter what else might be going on around us, and just maybe your wish(es) will be granted.

And so I’m offering this simple phrase,
To kids from one to ninety-two,
Although it’s been said many times, many ways,
A very Merry Christmas to you.

Don’t forget to look for me on Facebook and at http://www.examiner.com/aging-style-in-new-york/jeffrey-felner.

Monday, December 6, 2010

HAT CHAT






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Continuing on with focus of accessories, let’s move on to HATS. You may simply refer to them as hats but they are classified as newsboy, cloche, balaclava, baseball, beanies, fedoras, trilby, cowboy, pork pie, derby, top hat, trapper, beret, aviator, or skull cap. To think these are but some of the styles that are available to you during your everyday retail travels and that includes online as well. Hats make a great gift at this time of year as well as a much needed accessory in the cold climes.

Most ubiquitous on the streets of New York City, and almost everywhere, has been the fedora for all of Spring and Summer on men and women and with no ages left out. As the Fall season takes hold and moves rapidly into Winter, there are already signs that the beanie, skull cap and the trapper varieties, from knit to fur, that will be crowning the heads of almost everyone and not just for protection of the cooler temperatures as hats make a fashion statement with no extra added attachments.

As the great milliner Stephen Jones has stated, “A hat can be the exclamation point for your outfit.” He would be very pleased to see that so many have heeded his words and spoken very emphatically by their choice of head gear. It doesn’t matter if you buy your head covering at Wal-Mart or Neiman Marcus, the statement will speak for itself. No matter where you make the purchase, the silhouettes remain constant and your look is up to you. As always my suggestion is to have alternatives, different mood – different hat, different weather – different hat or match them to your outerwear.

So the question remains, what will your “exclamation point” look like

Monday, November 29, 2010

GLOVE LOVE ..WINTER 2010






http://www.oligoville.com/2010/11/29/fashion-by-the-rules-glove-love/

Wednesday, November 24, 2010

Venet-Givenchy-Balenciaga



http://www.nyjournalofbooks.com/review/cristobal-balenciaga-philippe-venet-hubert-de-givenchy-grand-traditions-french-couture

Saturday, November 20, 2010

THE UPDATED LIST .....11/20/2010

DESIGNERS WHO HAVE ALL BUT BEEN FORGOTTEN
Abbijane
Adolfo
Adri
Adrian
Aghayan, Ray
Aimbez,Gil
Akira
Albini Walter
Alaia Azzedine
Alfaro,Victor
Allard,Isabelle
Amey,Ron
Andre Adeline
Andrevie France
Androver Miguel
Ann, Lucie
Antaya,Maurice
Anthony John
Arbeid,Murray
Ashpool, John
Aspeci Alberto
Assatly Richard
Atkinson Bill
Audibet Marc
Aurientis Dominique
Azzaro, Loris
Balenciaga
Ballestra Renato
Balmain Pierre
Banks Jeffrey
Banton Travis
Barocco Rocco
Barretta Anne Marie
Barrie Scott
Barthelemy, Claude
Barthet Jean
Basile
Beamon Eric
Beene Geoffrey
Begedor
Beaudry, Diane
Bennet Russell
Bennis,Susan
Benson,Dianne
Beretta, Anne Marie
Bergere Eric
Biagiotti Laura
Bis Dianne
Blass,Bill
Blumarine
Body Map
Bohan Marc
Bolan Barbara
Bonavitacola Kenneth
Brevard Lee
Bricjel Vesna
Bricken,Barry
Brooks Donald
Burrows Stephen
Byblos
Caesarani,Sal
Cameron David
Canovas Isabel
Capraro Albert
Capucci
Cardin,Pierre
Carnegie,Hattie
Carr,Zach
Caruschka
Cashin Bonnie
Castillo,Edmund
Castlebajac John Claude
Caumont
Cerrutti
Chapman Ceil
Chase,Tony
Chloe
Cipullo Aldo
Clark Ossie
Cleaver, Alan
Cole, Anne
Colonna Jean
Copeland,Jo
Coreggiari Giorgio
Coringer Cara
Costa Victor
Courreges Andre
Crahay,Jules Francois
Crystal,David
Dache Lilly
D’Alby, Pierre
Daumas,Jean Remy
Dell’Olio, Louis
de Premonville Myrene
de Senneville Elisabeth
Dennis, Pamela
DeRibes Jacqueline
Desses Jean
Dessio Mark
d'Estanville Kim
Di Camerino,Roberta
Dianos Katherine
Dimitri
Dominic D.D.
Donovan, Carrie
Dorsey Hebe
Duka John
Ebker,Tarquin
Edelstein,Victor
Eisen Mark
Edwards,Warren
Epperson
Esterel Jacques
Estevez
Estrada Angel
Evins David
Fabiani
Fabrice
Fath,Jacques
Feraud Louis
Ferrandis, Phillipe
Feith Tracy
Ferre Gianfranco
Fiandaca,Alfred
Fielden David
Finis
Fogarty Ann
Fortuny
Forquet,Federico
Fowler Timney
Fox,Peter
Friedman,Marcia
Fries Diane
Frizon Maude
Galanos James
Gallitzine Irene
Gell,Wendy
Geller,Andrew
George Jennifer
Gernrich Rudi
Ghinnea
Ghost/ Sarne Tanya
Gigli Romeo
Go Silk
Grateau,Muriel
Guidicelli Tan
Haire Bill & Hazel
Halley,George
Halpern, Joan & David
Hansen Betty
Hardwick Cathy
Harp Holly
Hawes Elizabeth
Hayes David
Head Edith
Hechter Daniel
Heller Nancy
Hempl,Anouschka
Henderson Gordon
Herman Stan
Hitchcock Jonathan
Horn Carol
Hornby Judy
Howard Chuck
Hyatt Lester
Inaba Yoshi
James Charles
Jean Louis
Jin abe
Jitrois Jean Claude
Joris, Victor
Jourdan,Charles
Julianelli, Mabel
Julio
Kaiserman,Bill
Kasper
Kastenberg,Jeanette
Kelly Patrick
Kelly Orry
Kenzo
Kerr Patt
Khan Emanuelle
Kirk Alexis
Kirkpatrick,Gayle
Kline Don
Kloss John
Knot Jean Paul
Kobayashi Yukio
Kolodzie Ronald
Lacroix,Christian
La Marca Arlene
Lars,Byron
Lamy,Michele
La Viola, Claudio
Lancetti
Lapidus Ted
Larissa
Laug Andre
Leal,Ron
LeGaspi Larry
Lempica, Lolita
Leonard
Leser Tina
Lester,Patricia
Levine Beth
Logan Joshua
Loper Don
Lowe,Ann
Madame Gres
Magid Marion
Mainbocher
Malave
Manolo
Masandrea Frank
McFadden, Mary
Matsuda
McCardle Claire
MicMac
Miller Nolan
Mills Tracy
Miyake Issey
Moises Debra
Molyneux
Montana Claude
Mori Hanae
Morris Bernadine
Mortenson Eric
Moschino
Mr.John
Mugler Thierry
Muir Jean
Mulqueen Jack
Muto,Anthony
Myles Morton
Neuville Charlotte
Nippon Pearl&Albert
Nivelais Roland
Norell Norman
Novarese,Michael
Nye ,Matt
Nyeboe,Jasper
Odicini
Oldfield, Bruce
Oldham Todd
Olive, Frank
Oliver Andre
Orrier
Ozbek Rifat
Parachute(designers)
Parnis Mollie
Partos,Emeric
Pasquali Guido
Paulin Guy
Pernet Diane
Perris Bernard
Perteguy
Pfister Andrea
Piccione,Robin
Platos Stanley
Poe,Michael
Pomodoro Carmelo
Porter Thea
Price Anthony
Pucci Emilio
Quant Mary
Rankin Isaia
Rech Georges
Restivo, Mary Ann
Rhodes Zandra
Ricci Nina
Robinson,Bill
Rochas Helene
Rodgers,Shannon
Roehm,Carolyne
Rogers Jackie
Rojas,Roberto
Rose Helen
Ross,Martin
Roth, Christian Frances
Ruffin Clovis
Rykiel Sonia
Sachs,Gloria
Samen, George
Sanchez Fernando
Sanchez Rafael
Santos Edwin
Sax,Gunther
Scassi Arnold
Schaparelli,Elsa
Scherrer Jean Louis
Schon Mila
Scott Ken
Sebiri,Celia
Selwyn,Harriet
Shamask Ronaldus
Shariff Irene
Simonetta
Simpson Adele
Smith Willi
Soprani Luciano
Sprouse Stephen
St. Angelo Giorgio
Starr Malcolm
Stein, Frances Patiky
Stravropoulos
Sturgeon,Sara
Sung, Alfred
Suppon, Charles
Sybilla
Takahashi, Masako
Tarlazzi ,Angelo
Tassell, Gus
Tatterachi, Marie Pierre
Thomas, Chantal
Theodore
Tice, Bill
Tiel Vicky
Tiffeau Jacques
Tiktiner
Tignino,Frank
Tilley, Monica
Tivioli, Carlo
Tomkins,Susie
Traina Teal
Trell Rosabianco
Trigere, Pauline
Tyler, Richard
Ungaro Emanuel
Valentina
Valentino, Mario
Van den Akker Koos
Van Wrunkle,Theodora
Vanderbilt,Gloria
Vass,Joan
Venet, Phillipe
Veneziani, Jole
Venturi,Gianmarco
Versolato,Ocimar
Vollbracht,Michael
von Pier,Andre
Wacs,Ilie
Walker,Andre
Weinberg,Chester
Weitz John
Werle
Whitcomb,Laura
Winter,Harriet
Worth
Wragge,BH
Yamomoto Kansai
Yorke & Cole
Zoran

Monday, November 15, 2010

Get Booted !! Fashionably

http://www.oligoville.com/2010/11/15/fashion-by-the-rules-get-booted/

Sunday, November 14, 2010

KENZO..........THE BOOK ....DON'T MISS IT

http://www.nyjournalofbooks.com/review/kenzo

Sunday, October 24, 2010

Have you read?? Did you see??? Did you register??

http://www.nyjournalofbooks.com/reviewer/jeffrey-felner

Saturday, October 16, 2010

READ IT --OWN IT --LOVE IT !!!



http://www.nyjournalofbooks.com/review/postcards-edge-catwalk

Tuesday, October 12, 2010

PARIS...HERMES et CHANEL ..LE FIN !!






Hermes, Jean Paul Gaultier, was a fitting end to what seemed like weeks of shows in Paris. This is, after all, the last show that Mr. Gaultier will resend for the famed brand. Nevertheless, to say he went out with a bang is an understatement. While the clothes remain utterly urbane, utterly low key and wildly expensive, the collection demonstrates how to take a trend/ theme and own it in every way. Each outfit bore the Hermes stamp……each had its own interpretation of the theme or inspiration and all of it was pure and true to the house. It is a rarity, in the world of fashion, to reinvigorate an established brand and breathe new life into it and retain the original DNA and integrity from which the house was built, but Mr. Gaultier, much to his credit, took the brand and his own particular skill set and created a fashion powerhouse for the brand which was primarily known for its accessories.

There are few words that can express the overwhelming talent of Karl Lagerfeld. This season for Chanel, he has delivered another blockbuster collection that will send the Chanel ladies into a dead faint. The palette is limited and yet there is no boredom, not a second wasted in delivering the latest message from the master. From tweeds to torn denim to plumage, the message is clearly modern and always retaining the language of Chanel. Everything is tweaked to perfection for any age, it is all there, provided of course that you can afford the luxury of such beauty. Fashion can be a cruel friend but obviously Mr. Lagerfeld has never made an enemy here at the house of Chanel…the slideshow will speak for itself

Friday, October 8, 2010

PARIS..The legacy of McQueen continues








There can be nothing worse than knowing that what you put forth will be the moment that everyone judges your work. Sarah Burton, who stood next to her mentor and best friend for 15 years, has shown the world that she is fluent in the vocabulary that was ALEXANDER McQUEEN!!! This was a tour de force of talent which very few can ever achieve when having to fill the shoes of a genius. There is no coincidence that within this oeuvre there were symbols of transformation, the butterfly which is said to be a human soul in search of reincarnation and the sheaf of wheat and wheat itself which is said to be a symbol of fertility, prosperity and strength. It is all true as Ms. Burton has forever endeared herself to retailers, editors and most of all the bigwigs at PPR who will, no doubt, anoint her as the “second coming.”

She chose her silhouettes carefully, eased them up ever so slightly and in some cases pushed them to the next level. The fantasy which Mr. McQueen invoked in his shows was not lost on Sarah Burton. There is no doubt that the darkness which pervaded so many of his shows in the past was banished to white, pure and virginal. It is almost an unfathomable task to have bequeathed the legacy which Mr. McQueen left and yet it is no less remarkable for Sarah Burton to have continued his DNA with such unimaginable abilities and loyalty.

Her love and respect for ALEXANDER McQUEEN is reflected in these clothes for only with those qualities has it been possible to create and prolong the brand and the man.

Thursday, October 7, 2010

PARIS ...EMANUEL UNGARO, YVES ST LAURENT, STELLA McCARTNEY, GIAMBATTISTA VALLI






Emanuel Ungaro, Giles Deacon has relocated the DNA that was lost for so many seasons. Mr. Deacon’s freshman outing for the brand was certainly more than promising. The collection was strong with signatures such as draping, lace and sexy for after 5 but there needs to be that provocative and intrinsically sexy attitude that Mr. Ungaro was such a master at for the daytime segment. The prints which the brand was so famous for would have fit in so well with the current trend in Paris this season but instead there was an oversized graphic black and white print. Mr. Deacon will find his was as it is very apparent that he understands the vocabulary of the house.

Yves St Laurent, Stefano Pilati, strained to not reference the house’s DNA too literally when he actually had the license to do it and no one would have faulted him. There seems to be a sort of YSL fever that has been swept the runways in Paris and Milan and one would have hoped that the namesake brand would have partaken in the trend with greater gusto. Mr. Pilati politely nodded and alluded to the house signatures, under the stewardship of Mr. St Laurent, but he should have really dipped into the language that is St. Laurent. Mr. Pilati has taken the brand into the 21st century but there is a lack of the soigne and chic that seems to be lacking which St. Laurent did so well. The heightened state of expectation fell flat here this season when it should have been a no brainer for Mr. Pilati.

Stella McCartney continues on her pilgrimage for wearable, understandable and real clothes and she does so to great effect. The tailoring is present, albeit a bit more relaxed, an unfortunate segment of denim, and much more surprisingly, a wonderful element of a “citrus print” which suddenly delivered a sense of playfulness not seen very often in this collection.

Giambattista Valli delivered a confusing and possibly misguided foray into Spring 2011. The shapes were easy, the palette appealing, the leopard fun but the sheer looks and odd mash ups and the house’s signatures which were distorted this season made of ran awkward presentation. Somewhere in the midst of all this, Mr. Valli managed to send out some great daytime pieces as well as a few spectacular chiffons but the overall collection seemed to be severely lacking.

Wednesday, October 6, 2010

PARIS ...ANDREW GN, AKRIS, GIVENCHY, CELINE, ALEX MABILLE






Andrew Gn opened up with a series of virginal white long dresses complete with ruffles and tiers and shades of the 70’s. Decidedly hippy and a heavy concentration on day clothes which is not the normal M O for this house. Missing were the embellished and decorative dressy dresses of past seasons but we received Mr. Gn’s take on broderie anglaise which hardly filled the void left by the disappearance of his usual ornate creations.

Akris provided plenty of the house’s DNA in the form of clean sharp lined clothing which bore more than a striking resemblance to Dries Van Noten. The urbane slick lady clothes from Akris will keep their clientele smiling and the registers ringing.

Givenchy, Ricardo Tisci, kept that punk moment alive but with a preponderance of black which seems to be the “anti-color” this season. It seemed that the collection leaned very hard on Mr. Tisci’s love for leopard and zippers but they did little to make this collection a standout. This was not replay nor was it the extended play we have seen in the past few days from so many collections. The rock star DNA and glamour that has pervaded this collection in the past seems absent or hidden due to the complicated way the clothes were shown.

Alexis Mabille is one of the rising stars of Paris fashion and this season there was a seismic shift toward daytime attire which was a great disappointment. Decidedly graphic and feminine with hints of 70’s silhouettes but there were some stellar moments with divine white blouses and some superb dresses. His palette remained restrained which worked to his advantage on many levels.

Celine, Phoebe Philo, returns after a watershed Fall collection and hit the extended play button with more relaxed shapes which were riffs on Fall. The shapes were relaxed and yet managed to hold onto the clean lines which propelled her to dizzying heights after the past collection. This season we get a taste of the artisan with some hand woven silks and some less successful prints which seemed awkward. Nevertheless, the DNA of the brand has been altered but far from destroyed.

PARIS ...AZZARO, JEAN PAUL GAULTIER, LOEWE, VIKTOR & ROLF






Azzaro, Vanessa Steward, was short on length but long on charm and appeal. There was a little girl quality to many of the white dresses but it was balanced out by the sexy styling when she used other colors. The only trend we saw here was ruffles and yet the lack of trend was balanced by the salable wearable collection that keeps her ladies coming back for more.
Jean Paul Gaultier was a lil bit rock n’ roll and lil bit of punk for Spring. There were cosmic prints and lots of JPG DNA spread around. What is quickly becoming a trend here is pressing the extended play or the replay button and this was no exception. This is a collection for the diehard JPG fans as it was hardly what one might call…..pivotal but it was, as usual, irreverent start to finish.
Loewe, Stuart Vevers, filled us with great hope since seeing his last collection for Fall but alas, for Spring, he seems to have strayed or perhaps lost his way. The clothes are ok … there was the requisite color and prints but there seemed to be no mood, no moment as if it was forced out to meet the deadline.
Viktor and Rolf are considered to be showmen, not to mention great technicians and good designers, but this season the theme seemed to control the collection. The theme, French cuffed dress shirts, became so over powering that the clothes seem to be secondary to sticking to the theme. Buried amongst all the theatrics were some very appealing clothes but they were so over shadowed by all the tricks and visuals employed by these two.

Saturday, October 2, 2010

PARIS...DIOR,LANVIN,ROLAND MOURET






Dior, John Galliano, brought everyone to Hawaii, maybe Tahiti, but it was definitely the tropics. The girls were vampy, the girls were campy but the overall presentation, clothes included, did not live up the expectation of spectacular that we have become accustomed to from Dior. The problem is that every show cannot be a blockbuster but we can always be happy that it was certainly more than satisfactory.

Lanvin, Alber Elbaz……word association…urbane, chic, slick, pleated, modern, draped and zipped….and there you have Lanvin. Mr. Elbaz has turned the sleepy brand into a blockbuster must for modern women of the 21st century. This is the one stop shopping destination for his clientele. There was color, caftans,zipping, draping, clean lines and all the Lanvin signatures that Mr. Elbaz has created for the Lanvin woman……there are few collections on any continent that can rival its appeal ……BRAVO !!!!

Roland Mouret didn’t hit the replay button but instead hit extended play where he massaged his signature looks for Spring. He teased us with color and eased the shapes while adding some much more relaxed sportswear looks which were less on the mark that his usual fare. Hopefully by Fall, the look will have solidified for a more extensive collection.