Wednesday, September 29, 2010

MILAN ..BASTA!!! FERRAGAMO, BRIONI, DOLCE&GABBANA, ARMANI, Dsquared,CAVALLI






Salvatore Ferragamo, Masamiliano Giornetti, have found a home for each other. Mr. Giornetti had been designing the men’s collection and now he has added women’s to his duties and now the brand finally has something to brag about. The current collection is for the “well heeled” (HA!) lady who wants a clean, stylish, understandable, and understated wardrobe. He has skillfully taken the brand’s DNA and heritage and combined them for an extremely tasteful and salable collection for women of almost any age.

Dolce&Gabbana presented the odd collection of very white, virginal clothes which were awash with broderie anglais and yet managed to work in their signature leopard and boudoir components. The collection was presented without all the usual bells and whistles and yet one more time these guys met a theme and milked it for all it was worth to great result.

Brioni, Allesandro Dell’Aqua, has offered some welcomed new feminine touches for a house which is known for its rigid tailoring and hard lines. The razor sharp edges have been softened and the palette greatly improved. The minimalist roots of the collection have been refined rather than retained and the appeal broadened by doing so.

Dsquared, the Caten boys, presented still one more of their ever perplexing collections; who is their customer and why? It’s a mystery who buys these clothes and why they would be bought other than at Kohl’s or JC Penny prices save for the evening pieces. At any rate, the androgynous and preppy collection did little to disappoint since there is no great level of expectation involved.

Giorgio Armani presented one more of those collections that reminds everyone why he is who is and does what he does. There is no ground breaking news and no radical departure from his MO, but he exhibits a consistency that so many would benefit from if followed. The collection was softer than usual and definitely blue; in its many varieties and shades. As alluded to in the program, the evening clothes were of starry clear glittering nights with no extra bells and whistles. In this business there is something to be said for consistency, especially when it has proven successful for decades.

Roberto Cavalli went to rock star heaven with this collection. The 70’s are alive and well here, just a lot more expensive. The clothes were more fantasy than reality and yet they were exhibits of what factories can do with a few yards of cloth and some leather…..amazing would be a much understated description. Aside from the technical wonders, the collection bears very little relation to any reality other than your “hidden rock star” persona. He and Mr. Dundas, from Pucci, have beaten this to death and it is time to move on!!