Thursday, January 28, 2010

SPRING COUTURE-- PART 3






FASHION BY THE RULES: FANTASYLAND 3

The last of the season bowed with more of a whimper than a wail this week in Paris. As much as I try to fully comprehend the Haute Couture, there are times that I am thoroughly confused by what designers present during the Holy Grail’s of this fashion week or 3 days as it may be.

I have always been a fan of JP Gaultier, bother couture and RTW, but I am a bit confused that he took this couture collection to the same theatrics as he does for regular collections. For my taste this show and the clothes are overly “themed”…….yet what he accomplished is that he displays the awe inspiring abilities of his atelier. From palm fronds to piano shawls and unbelievable feats of engineering, the collection certainly had the signature JPG humor but not the usual chic and guts of his couture collections.

VALENTINO, oh how I miss “the Chic”………………..the 2 who are now in charge of designing are in need of a reality fix. They need to figure out who their customer is and who they are searching for as a customer………………..but all that aside, There is no chic, no soigné, no raffine regardless of the design itself. The deft hand of the atelier is present but the design is weak and seems over worked and over reaching ………….trying too hard. There are traces of the DNA of Valentino but surely not much else…..even the shoes are sad.

ELIE SAAB. the dialed down collection is still chock a block with red carpet looks …………..just with less obvious adornment such as beading …………………I am not sure why he chose to totally eliminate a signature since the presentation became a bit repetitive.

Again I urge you to slowly go through the collections at www.style.com

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

FANTASYLAND Pt. 2






FASHION BY THE RULES: FANTASYLAND Pt. 2

Today’s offering has much to do with what makes couture what it is………………….and the artist in charge is Karl Lagerfeld for CHANEL.
Here is a designer extraordinaire, who in his 54th collection delivers a truly unbelievable collection where he strays into alien territory…………..even for him. The order of the day was NO BLACK ;barely there color, no gold buttons and an uproarious reference to either Comtesse de Castiglione or Lady GAGA depending on your frame of reference. Banished is the spring time navy blue and even any sign of a nautical reference and instead came a collection heavy on SILVER and heavy on embellishment and threaded with a youthful vibe.
I find it difficult to express the artistry and imagination that is used when conceiving a collection such as this ……………from the mind of Lagerfeld to the actual rendering of these confections which utilize some of the greatest artisans in the world.

On the other hand, today we have GIVENCHY, by Riccardo Tisci who for sure has shown off his tailoring skills and is steering the aged house into a new generation of couture customers.
While I might long to see the elegance and grace and simplicity of Le Grand Hubert, I am starting to find relevance and import in the designs of the house. It is refreshing to see an “ancient” art and apply it to contemporary fashion.

The couture is best looked at slowly and examined, so I suggest you have a long look at www.style.com

Tuesday, January 26, 2010

FASCISM ON FACEBOOK


NEAGTIVE COMMENTS ARE DELETED FROM THE WWD WOMENS WEAR DAILY PAGE ..............HERE IS THE LETTER I SENT TO CONDE NAST
I have noticed that on your FACEBOOK page ...if any comments are made which are not in agreement with the post, then the comments are removed..........I wasn't aware that free speech is not to be exercised with WWD.
if those who did the posts took into account what the newspaper used to stand for then they might think twice about turning a "TRADE PAPER" into another celbrity driven rag..............we need the TRADE PAPER......... .we do not need another OK or PEOPLE magazine
Jeffrey Felner

FANTASY LAND





FASHION BY THE RULES: FANTASYLAND

Welcome to the world of Haute Couture, where rules and regulations do not apply, where price is not even considered and where the artists of fashion live with their followers. Paris has just begun its summit of designers and consumers for the sole purpose of this rarefied territory known as couture.

As is the usual custom of the week, John Galliano for DIOR starts the week with what can only be described as unbelievable in terms of design, artistry and cost. Given the twin inspirations of Charles James and Monsieur Dior, himself, this collection, with themes of equestrian attire and then of the architecture of Charles James, can only be deemed masterful, genius and breathtaking in every way possible.

Proceeding Dior is another master……….ARMANI PRIVE who offers up the crescent and curvilinear arc as its theme. Once again Mr. Armani shows us that he is a master of his construction as well as a master of jaw dropping beauty …………..no expense spared!!!!

Mainly, it must be considered that this ritual of Haute Couture is only for the very rich but should be seen by anyone who truly appreciates it as an art form………this is where it all began and why we have businesses based on all types of fashion.

Wednesday, January 20, 2010

Tuesday, January 19, 2010

THE CONTINUING SAGA OF SARAH JESSICA PARKER


WELL.................................The latest update on the situation is that Ms Parker has been given (is my bet) a financial stake in the company and been named President and Chief Creative Officer..................I would like to know who you know who has taken on either of those positions as a part time position.... When asked about her qualifications....................she evasively replied as a parrot does when asked a question . The article in WWD makes a point of bringing up Victoria Beckham and Mary Kate Olsen except for the fact that they did not join an established brand rather they began their own companies....................it only makes me believe that the brand needs a celebrity to bolster the established brand even before it starts and is therefore heading for a disaster

Friday, January 15, 2010

HALSTON & SJP


No matter how much i love Sarah Jessica Parker, why would I ....or anyone else......be excited that she has been appointed to some creative position at Halston . The front cover of WWD makes as if this will be the second coming ........my question is why isn't the 'FASHION BIBLE' horrified by this appointment?????????????? The fashion business in NYC is suffering, there are so many experienced people out there looking for jobs, and the only newspaper dedicated to the fashion business applauds the hiring of a television/movie personality as a creative director of sorts........................and why is this good????????????