Thursday, December 29, 2011

NYC fashion; Stylish reads of 2011





Friday, December 23, 2011

NYC Fashion; Christmas Fashion "Don'ts"


Friday, November 18, 2011

Monday, November 14, 2011

NYC fashion; Inquiring minds need to know .....designer focus Federico Piaggi (Gianfranco Ferre)


read the Q&A from Federico Piaggi..one half of the design team for GIANFRANCO FERRE

Saturday, October 1, 2011

Updated list Ocober 1..designers who have been forgotten

Abbijane -Adolfo -Adri -Adrian -Aghayan, Ray -Aimbez,Gil -Akira -Albini Walter -Alaia Azzedine -Aldrich, Larry -Alfaro,Victor -Allard,Isabelle -Amey,Ron -Andre ,Adeline -Andrevie, France -Androver, Miguel -Ann, Lucie -Antaya,Maurice -Anthony ,John -Arbeid,Murray -Ashpool, John -Aspeci, Alberto -Assatly, Richard -Atkinson, Bill -Audibet, Marc -Aujard, Christian -Aurientis, Dominique -Azzaro, Loris -Balenciaga -Ballestra, Renato -Balmain, Pierre -Banks, Jeffrey -Banton, Travis -Barnett, Sheridan -Barocco, Rocco -Barretta, Anne Marie -Barrie, Scott -Barthelemy, Claude -Barthet, Jean -Bates, John -Beamon, Eric -Beene ,Geoffrey -Beaudry, Diane -Bennet, Russell -Bennis,Susan -Benson,Dianne -Beretta, Anne Marie -Bergere, Eric – -Bet, Xuly -Biagiotti Laura -Blair, Alistair -Blass,Bill -Bohan, Marc -Bolan, Barbara -Bonavitacola, Kenneth -Bowlling, Lynn -Brevard, Lee -Bricjel, Vesna -Bricken,Barry -Brooks, Donald -Bugnand, Bob -Burrows, Stephen -Caesarani,Sal -Cameron ,David -Canovas ,Isabel -Capraro, Albert -Capucci -Cardin,Pierre -Carnegie,Hattie -Carr,Zach -Cartmell, Adrian -Caruschka -Cashin, Bonnie -Cassini, Oleg -Castillo,Edmund -Castelbajac ,John Claude -Cerrutti , Nino -Chapman, Ceil -Chase,Tony - Chun,Eva -Cipullo, Aldo -Clark, Ossie -Cleaver, Alan -Cole, Anne -Colonna ,Jean -Composto, Frank -Conrad, Bern -Conran, Jasper -Connoly, Sybil -Cooper, Charles -Copeland,Jo -Coreggiari ,Giorgio -Coringer,Cara -Costa, Victor -Courreges, Andre -Coveri, Enrico -Crahay,Jules Francois -Crystal,David -Dache, Lilly -D’Alby, Pierre -Daumas,Jean Remy -Deal, Donald -De Mourra, Giovanni -Dell’Olio, Louis -del Pozo, Jesus -de Premonville, Myrene -de Senneville, Elisabeth -Dennis, Pamela -DeRibes, Jacqueline -Desses ,Jean -Dessio, Mark -d'Estanville, Kim -Di Camerino,Roberta -Dianos, Katherine -Dimitri -Ditford, Bill -Dominic D.D. -Douet, Jacques -Duke, Randolph -Ebker,Tarquin -Edelstein,Victor -Eisen, Mark -Edwards,Warren -Ellis, Perry -Emanuel,David & Elizabeth -Epperson -Esterel, Jacques -Estevez -Estrada, Angel -Evins, David -Ewing, Gene -Fabiani -Fabrice -Fath,Jacques -Feraud, Louis -Ferrandis, Phillipe -Feith, Tracy -Ferre, Gianfranco -Fiandaca,Alfred -Fielden ,David -Finis -Fiore,Frank -Fogarty, Ann , -Fontana, Sorel -Fortuny -Forquet,Federico -Fowler ,Timney -Fox,Peter -Friedman,Marcia -Fries, Diane -Frizon, Maude -Galanos James -Gallitzine, Irene -Gamba, Jimmy -Gell,Wendy -Geller,Andrew -George, Jennifer -Gernrich, Rudi -Gertz, Geoffrey -Ghinnea -Gibb, Bill -Gigli Romeo -Grateau,Muriel -Gres, Alix -Guidicelli ,Tan -Haire Bill & Hazel -Halley,George -Halpern, Joan & David -Halston -Hamnett, Katherine -Hansen ,Betty -Hardwick, Cathy -Harp, Holly -Hawes, Elizabeth -Hayes, David -Head, Edith -Hechter, Daniel -Heller, Nancy -Hempl,Anouschka -Henderson, Gordon -Herman, Stan -Hitchcock, Jonathan -Holt, Henry -Horn, Carol -Hornby ,Judy -Horton, Susan -Howard, Chuck -Hulanicki, Barbara -Hyatt,Lester -Inaba, Yoshi -Issiah -James, Charles -Jean Louis -Jin abe -Jitrois, Jean Claude -Joris, Victor -Jourdan,Charles -Jovine, Andrea -Julianelli, Mabel -Julio -Kaiserman,Bill -Karesh, Lance -Kasper -Kastenberg,Jeanette -Kelly, Patrick -Keiko -Kelly, Orry -Kenzo -Kerr, Patt -Khan, Emanuelle -Kirk, Alexis -Kirkpatrick,Gayle -Kline, Don -Kloss, John -Knot, Jean Paul -Knox, Nancy -Kobayashi, Yukio -Kolodzie, Ronald -Koschino, Hiroko -Lacroix,Christian -La Marca, Arlene -Lars,Byron -Lamy,Michele -La Viola, Claudio -Lancetti -Lapidus Ted -Larissa -Laug, Andre -LaViola,Claudio -Leal,Ron -LeGaspi, Larry -Lempica, Lolita -Leonard -Leser Tina -Lester,Patricia -Leva, Michael -Levine Beth -Logan Joshua -Loper Don -Lowe,Ann -Madame Gres -Magid Marion -Mainbocher -Malave -Malta, Silvano -Manolo -Masandrea Frank -McFadden, Mary -Matsuda -Mattiolo, Gai -McCardle, Claire -MicMac -Miller, Nolan -Mills, Tracy -Miyake, Issey -Moises, Debra -Molina,Fabian -Molyneux -Montana, Claude -Mori, Hanae -Mortenson, Eric -Moschino -Mr.John -Mugler ,Thierry -Muir, Jean -Mulqueen, Jack -Muto,Anthony -Myles ,Morton -Neuville, Charlotte -Nippon, Pearl&Albert -Nivelais, Roland -Noble, Danny -Nolan, Charles -Nolder, Terrance -Norell, Norman -Novarese,Michael -Nye ,Matt -Nyeboe,Jasper -Odicini -Oldfield, Bruce -Oldham, Todd -Olive, Frank -Oliver, Andre -Oppenheimer, Helen -Orrier -Ozbek ,Rifat -Pacquin -Pallant, Jean & Martin -Parnis, Mollie -Partos,Emeric -Pasquali, Guido -Patou, Jean -Paulin, Guy -Pernet, Diane -Perris, Bernard -Perteguy -Pfister, Andrea -Piccione,Robin -Platos ,Stanley -Poe,Michael -Pomodoro, Carmelo -Porter Thea -Price, Anthony -Pucci ,Emilio -Quant, Mary -Rankin, Isaia -Rebecchi, Massimo -Rech, Georges -Restivo, Mary Ann -Rhodes, Zandra -Ricci, Nina -Ricci, Todd -Richards, Kenneth -Robinson,Bill -Rochas, Helene -Rodgers,Shannon -Roehm,Carolyne -Rogers, Jackie -Rojas,Roberto -Rose, Helen -Ross,Martin -Roth, Christian Frances -Ruffin, Clovis -Rykiel Sonia -Sachs,Gloria -Samen, George -Samuels, Leslie -Sanchez, Fernando -Sanchez Rafael -Santos, Edwin -Sax,Gunther -Sayres,Don -Scassi, Arnold Schiaparelli,Elsa -Scherrer, Jean Louis -Schon ,Mila -Scott, Ken -Sebiri,Celia -Selwyn,Harriet -Shamask ,Ronaldus -Shariff, Irene -Simonetta -Simpson ,Adele -Sloate, Stella -Smith, Willi -Soprani ,Luciano -Sprouse, Stephen -St. Angelo, Giorgio -Starr, Malcolm -Stein, Frances Patiky -Stravropoulos -Sturgeon,Sara -Sung, Alfred -Suppon, Charles -Sybilla -Takahashi, Masako -Tam,Richard -Tarlazzi ,Angelo -Tassell, Gus -Tatterachi, Marie Pierre -Thimeister, Joseph -Thomas, Chantal -Tice, Bill -Tiel ,Vicky -Tiffeau Jacques -Tiktiner -Tignino,Frank -Tilley, Monica -Tivioli, Carlo -Tomkins,Susie -Traina Teal -Trell ,Rosabianco -Trigere, Pauline -Tyler, Richard -Ungaro ,Emanuel -Valentina -Valentino, Mario -Van den Akker ,Koos -Van Wrunkle,Theodora -Vanderbilt,Gloria -Vannozzi, Giambatista -Vass,Joan -Venet, Phillipe -Veneziani, Jole -Venturi,Gianmarco -Verna,Levino -Versolato,Ocimar -Vider, Ricky -Vollbracht,Michael -von Pier,Andre -Wacs,Ilie -Walker,Andre -Weinberg,Chester -Weitz ,John -Werle -Whitcomb,Laura -Winter,Harriet -Wolman,Pinky -Worth -Wragge,BH -Yamomoto Kansai -Yorke & Cole -Zoran

Wednesday, September 28, 2011

Observations...New York , London, Milan...Spring 2012

After having been through New York, London and Milan, once again what seems to be most annoying is the quality of the reportage and reviews which we read from the so called reliable news outlets. Yesterday WWD reported which Italian collections were the so called favorites of retailers from around the world. This is all well and good as everybody has an opinion, except for WWD who seemingly likes or loves everything. The 4 collections which were in the most favor were Marni, Prada, Bottega Veneta and Jil Sander. What happened to the collections that they actually sell? I defy any retailer or reviewer to find me 6 stores worldwide whose businesses depend on any of these collections as a measure of their successes. What is even more bothersome is the lack of knowledge that reviewers have when writing their seasonal assessments of any fashion brand anywhere, let alone that buyers are bean counters these days. It is disturbing that reviewers have no storehouse of fashion knowledge, their experience spans the last 20 minutes and that buyers are no more than accountants these days. When attending a show, there is an extreme shortage of “stores” yet there is an overabundance of “reviewers” and “fans.” Call me old fashioned but I think that the media hype surrounding a kid like Tavi is just disgraceful and what’s worse is that that her written word is taken seriously. I mean really, the child isn’t even finished with puberty and she has gravitas in the fashion world! It appears that no knowledge is a requirement for reviewers and buyers as past designer references within collections cannot be seen or attributed correctly, “inspirations” outweigh the end product, and ugly seems to reign supreme. The system and/or the players need to go back to school and figure out what this business is really about. At present, we have a “bible” which strictly panders to the wealthiest designers(who are really stylists), manufacturers and retailers and tons of young talent who go undiscovered while the cadre of “it” designers continually turn out ugly clothes for an invisible customer and are far happier selling perfume and handbags and loaning samples to celebrities rather than bolstering the business that made them famous. Speak up!

Sunday, September 18, 2011

CATCH UP OM SPRING 2012

http://www.examiner.com/aging-style-in-new-york/jeffrey-felner

Wednesday, August 24, 2011

AUG 24 ..DESIGNERS WHO HAVE ALL BUT BEEN FORGOTTEN


-Abbijane
-Adolfo
-Adri
-Adrian
-Aghayan, Ray
-Aimbez,Gil
-Akira
-Albini Walter
-Alaia Azzedine
-Aldrich, Larry
-Alfaro,Victor
-Allard,Isabelle
-Amey,Ron
-Andre ,Adeline
-Andrevie, France
-Androver, Miguel
-Ann, Lucie
-Antaya,Maurice
-Anthony ,John
-Arbeid,Murray
-Ashpool, John
-Aspeci, Alberto
-Assatly, Richard
-Atkinson, Bill
-Audibet, Marc
-Aujard, Christian
-Aurientis, Dominique
-Azzaro, Loris
-Balenciaga
-Ballestra, Renato
-Balmain, Pierre
-Banks, Jeffrey
-Banton, Travis
-Barnett, Sheridan
-Barocco, Rocco
-Barretta, Anne Marie
-Barrie, Scott
-Barthelemy, Claude
-Barthet, Jean
-Bates, John
-Beamon, Eric
-Beene ,Geoffrey
-Beaudry, Diane
-Bennet, Russell
-Bennis,Susan
-Benson,Dianne
-Beretta, Anne Marie
-Bergere, Eric –
-Bet, Xuly
-Biagiotti Laura
-Blair, Alistair
-Blass,Bill
-Bohan, Marc
-Bolan, Barbara
-Bonavitacola, Kenneth
-Bowlling, Lynn
-Brevard, Lee
-Bricjel, Vesna
-Bricken,Barry
-Brooks, Donald
-Bugnand, Bob
-Burrows, Stephen

-Caesarani,Sal
-Cameron ,David
-Canovas ,Isabel
-Capraro, Albert
-Capucci
-Cardin,Pierre
-Carnegie,Hattie
-Carr,Zach
-Cartmell, Adrian
-Caruschka
-Cashin, Bonnie
-Cassini, Oleg
-Castillo,Edmund
-Castlebajac ,John Claude
-Cerrutti , Nino
-Chapman, Ceil
-Chase,Tony
- Chun,Eva
-Cipullo, Aldo
-Clark, Ossie
-Cleaver, Alan
-Cole, Anne
-Colonna ,Jean
-Composto, Frank
-Conrad, Bern
-Conran, Jasper
-Connoly, Sybil
-Cooper, Charles
-Copeland,Jo
-Coreggiari ,Giorgio
-Coringer,Cara
-Costa, Victor
-Courreges, Andre
-Coveri, Enrico
-Crahay,Jules Francois
-Crystal,David
-Dache, Lilly
-D’Alby, Pierre
-Daumas,Jean Remy
-Deal, Donald
-De Mourra, Giovanni
-Dell’Olio, Louis
-del Pozo, Jesus
-de Premonville, Myrene
-de Senneville, Elisabeth
-Dennis, Pamela
-DeRibes, Jacqueline
-Desses ,Jean
-Dessio, Mark
-d'Estanville, Kim
-Di Camerino,Roberta
-Dianos, Katherine
-Dimitri
-Ditford, Bill
-Dominic D.D.
-Douet, Jacques
-Duke, Randolph
-Ebker,Tarquin
-Edelstein,Victor
-Eisen, Mark
-Edwards,Warren
-Ellis, Perry
-Epperson
-Esterel, Jacques
-Estevez
-Estrada, Angel
-Evins, David
Ewing, Gene
-Fabiani
-Fabrice
-Fath,Jacques
-Feraud, Louis
-Ferrandis, Phillipe
-Feith, Tracy
-Ferre, Gianfranco
-Fiandaca,Alfred
-Fielden ,David
-Finis
-Fiore,Frank
-Fogarty, Ann ,
-Fontana, Sorel
-Fortuny
-Forquet,Federico
-Fowler ,Timney
-Fox,Peter
-Friedman,Marcia
-Fries, Diane
-Frizon, Maude
-Galanos James
-Gallitzine, Irene
-Gamba, Jimmy
-Gell,Wendy
-Geller,Andrew
-George, Jennifer
-Gernrich, Rudi
-Gertz, Geoffrey
-Ghinnea
-Gibb, Bill
-Gigli Romeo
-Grateau,Muriel
-Gres, Alix
-Guidicelli ,Tan
-Haire Bill & Hazel
-Halley,George
-Halpern, Joan & David
-Halston
-Hamnett, Katherine
-Hansen ,Betty
-Hardwick, Cathy
-Harp, Holly
-Hawes, Elizabeth
-Hayes, David
-Head, Edith
-Hechter, Daniel
-Heller, Nancy
-Hempl,Anouschka
-Henderson, Gordon
-Herman, Stan
-Hitchcock, Jonathan
-Holt, Henry
-Horn, Carol
-Hornby ,Judy
-Horton, Susan
-Howard, Chuck
-Hulanicki, Barbara
-Hyatt,Lester
-Inaba, Yoshi
-Issiah
-James, Charles
-Jean Louis
-Jin abe
-Jitrois, Jean Claude
-Joris, Victor
-Jourdan,Charles
-Jovine, Andrea
-Julianelli, Mabel
-Julio
-Kaiserman,Bill
-Karesh, Lance
-Kasper
-Kastenberg,Jeanette
-Kelly, Patrick
-Keiko
-Kelly, Orry
-Kenzo
-Kerr, Patt
-Khan, Emanuelle
-Kirk, Alexis
-Kirkpatrick,Gayle
-Kline, Don
-Kloss, John
-Knot, Jean Paul
-Knox, Nancy
-Kobayashi, Yukio
-Kolodzie, Ronald
-Koschino, Hiroko
-Lacroix,Christian
-La Marca, Arlene
-Lars,Byron
-Lamy,Michele
-La Viola, Claudio
-Lancetti
-Lapidus Ted
-Larissa
-Laug, Andre
-LaViola,Claudio
-Leal,Ron
-LeGaspi, Larry
-Lempica, Lolita
-Leonard
-Leser Tina
-Lester,Patricia
-Leva, Michael
-Levine Beth
-Logan Joshua
-Loper Don
-Lowe,Ann
-Madame Gres
-Magid Marion
-Mainbocher
-Malave
-Malta, Silvano
-Manolo
-Masandrea Frank
-McFadden, Mary
-Matsuda
-Mattiolo, Gai
-McCardle, Claire
-MicMac
-Miller, Nolan
-Mills, Tracy
-Miyake, Issey
-Moises, Debra
-Molina,Fabian
-Molyneux
-Montana, Claude
-Mori, Hanae
-Mortenson, Eric
-Moschino
-Mr.John
-Mugler ,Thierry
-Muir, Jean
-Mulqueen, Jack
-Muto,Anthony
-Myles ,Morton
-Neuville, Charlotte
-Nippon, Pearl&Albert
-Nivelais, Roland
-Noble, Danny
-Nolan, Charles
-Nolder, Terrance
-Norell, Norman
-Novarese,Michael
-Nye ,Matt
-Nyeboe,Jasper
-Odicini
-Oldfield, Bruce
-Oldham, Todd
-Olive, Frank
-Oliver, Andre
-Oppenheimer, Helen
-Orrier
-Ozbek ,Rifat
-Pacquin
-Pallant, Jean & Martin
-Parnis, Mollie
-Partos,Emeric
-Pasquali, Guido
-Patou, Jean
-Paulin, Guy
-Pernet, Diane
-Perris, Bernard
-Perteguy
-Pfister, Andrea
-Piccione,Robin
-Platos ,Stanley
-Poe,Michael
-Pomodoro, Carmelo
-Porter Thea
-Price, Anthony
-Pucci ,Emilio
-Quant, Mary
-Rankin, Isaia
-Rebecchi, Massimo
-Rech, Georges
-Restivo, Mary Ann
-Rhodes, Zandra
-Ricci, Nina
-Ricci, Todd
-Richards, Kenneth
-Robinson,Bill
-Rochas, Helene
-Rodgers,Shannon
-Roehm,Carolyne
-Rogers, Jackie
-Rojas,Roberto
-Rose, Helen
-Ross,Martin
-Roth, Christian Frances
-Ruffin, Clovis
-Rykiel Sonia
-Sachs,Gloria
-Samen, George
-Samuels, Leslie
-Sanchez, Fernando
-Sanchez Rafael
-Santos, Edwin
-Sax,Gunther
-Sayres,Don
-Scassi, Arnold
Schiaparelli,Elsa
-Scherrer, Jean Louis
-Schon ,Mila
-Scott, Ken
-Sebiri,Celia
-Selwyn,Harriet
-Shamask ,Ronaldus
-Shariff, Irene
-Simonetta
-Simpson ,Adele
-Sloate, Stella
-Smith, Willi
-Soprani ,Luciano
-Sprouse, Stephen
-St. Angelo, Giorgio
-Starr, Malcolm
-Stein, Frances Patiky
-Stravropoulos
-Sturgeon,Sara
-Sung, Alfred
-Suppon, Charles
-Sybilla
-Takahashi, Masako
-Tam,Richard
-Tarlazzi ,Angelo
-Tassell, Gus
-Tatterachi, Marie Pierre
-Thimeister, Joseph
-Thomas, Chantal
-Tice, Bill
-Tiel ,Vicky
-Tiffeau Jacques
-Tiktiner
-Tignino,Frank
-Tilley, Monica
-Tivioli, Carlo
-Tomkins,Susie
-Traina Teal
-Trell ,Rosabianco
-Trigere, Pauline
-Tyler, Richard
-Ungaro ,Emanuel
-Valentina
-Valentino, Mario
-Van den Akker ,Koos
-Van Wrunkle,Theodora
-Vanderbilt,Gloria
-Vannozzi, Giambatista
-Vass,Joan
-Venet, Phillipe
-Veneziani, Jole
-Venturi,Gianmarco
-Verna,Levino
-Versolato,Ocimar
-Vider, Ricky
-Vollbracht,Michael
-von Pier,Andre
-Wacs,Ilie
-Walker,Andre
-Weinberg,Chester
-Weitz ,John
-Werle
-Whitcomb,Laura
-Winter,Harriet
-Wolman,Pinky
-Worth
-Wragge,BH
-Yamomoto Kansai
-Yorke & Cole
-Zoran

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

THE ICONOCLASTS.....

SEE THEM HERE ..... http://jeffybruce.tumblr.com/

Tuesday, May 10, 2011

SAVAGE BEAUTY.....Alexander McQueen

Metropolitan Museum of Art....N





ew York City

Saturday, April 9, 2011

Hermes 57th Street

The current auction (for the benefit of the Japanese earthquake victims)of Jane Birkin’s signed Birkin bag from Hermes got me thinking to times gone by when the name Hermes was whispered and not shouted. There really was a time when the name was revered beyond all others as it had a panache that was much more rarefied than Gucci or Louis Vuitton.
Imagine that there was no Louis Vuitton store and there were only 2 stores in all of NYC where you could buy it…Saks Fifth Avenue and Crouch & Fitzgerald which was a luggage store on Madison Avenue. Gucci was better known for shoes and handbags that for apparel and Hermes was the king of luxury leather goods. Hermes was for many years a place where it was only about quality and not about style. In fact the merchandise rarely changed and was just modified from season to season by changing a color or fabrication.
One of my many experiences in Hermes happened in the store on 57th Street when I ordered the “H” belt in red. Note that the belt was only offered in black and brown and reversed to one or the other. I asked to have it in red, the reply was “we don’t offer it in red” to which my reply was “well I didn’t ask how you offer it, I want it in red.” After much fussing I was “permitted” to order the belt in red and I can proudly say that mine was a first ...alas just not named for me. (Like Ms. Birkin’s handbag)
In those years, shopping was an experience; you dressed for the occasion or wore the symbols which silently signified good taste and status. A friend and I went to purchase a beach towel at Hermes…yes a beach towel which was at that time over $300. We were asked to take a seat and our salesperson proceeded to show us an array of terry cloth towels as if they were sable coats.
The moral to the stories is simply that when you purchase this “particular” Birkin bag, you are buying a piece of what catapulted the brand into an even more stratospheric phenomenon than its original incarnation as when it catered to the “horsey” set.
Many moons ago, shopping at Herms, even Gucci or Bergdorf Goodman had an almost reverential charisma that is long gone. Imagine the customer was treated like royalty and the sales people were beyond knowledgeable about their products, not to mention ace profilers when it came to figuring who was a buyer and who was a looker.




Friday, April 1, 2011

MONTANA....CLAUDE, that is

http://www.nyjournalofbooks.com/review/claude-montana-fashion-radical