It’s been many, many years since she was referred to as “our lady of the sleeves” and she has definitely transformed herself into a major player from that time. What I find a bit disturbing, among the designer cult, is the constant change in focus as to who is the customer. Ms. Herrera started out in the league of Blass and Oscar and Pauline and Geoffrey and then somewhere in the past 15 years, the collection took a 180 and was aimed at the so called new crop of society ladies who happened to be in their mid 20’s rather than their mid 40’s and older. For a while, the clothes found a look and I am assuming an audience and this season all bets are off.
Fall 2011, while still retaining its slick and urbane character, the collection has taken a decidedly plain and unadorned look which is not helping the bones of the collection. The clothes look a bit “triste” which might be a polite way of saying tired and dowdy. There are some memorable pieces but I found that for the most part, this season is highly forgettable. No drama like last fall with the high reaching feathers and hats, fall should be a time of excitement and a time where the clothes will beckon the ladies and call them to the fitting rooms.