Sunday, September 30, 2012

ANDREW GN Spring 2013 Paris Collections

WELL … WELL … WELL, HERE IS A CONCEPT… a collection of exquisitely made and designed clothes with an eye on his clientele. Mr. Gn is a master of embellishment and thank god, never a minimalist, although this was far from over the top with respect to gilding the lily! The clothes are quite simply … beautiful.

The collection begins in the now “no color” mood of Paris except it slowly morphs into glorious color and combinations. The mood is decidedly classic and in [part somewhat retro but never tired or hackneyed. All of it rendered with superb technique and fit which is a lot more than I can say about a lot of collections from the past few days. If I go out on a limb here, the collection looked more Dior than Raf Simons’ version of Dior.

There is a beautifully romantic mood created with the portrait necklines and the perfect ball gown that deserve to go to grand affairs. The segment of Indian ethnic embroidery is beautifully handled in silhouette and coloration; one might say in spice colors or the colors of India. The black and whites are perfect all year round but my only gripe would be the mauvish/lavender color which I always find to be a bit menopausal when it comes to dressy clothes. It is a wonderful surprise to see the return of satin duchesse handled with such great élan; never does it look heavy handed.
The bottom line is simply this is a wonderfully salable and couture like collection for the ladies of Gn and even for those who might be unfamiliar with his work. Was this a ground breaking collection? … No it was not. Instead Mr. Gn delivered a collection that requires no blah blah blah blah... how wonderful that is!