Two months ago I wrote “I am awed by the details and the almost undetectable and subtle details that he utilizes; whether it is the razor sharp tailoring or the shape of a cut out or even the origin of a drape. You may want to reread that passage as there are very few whose collections I look at with such respect for the art and craft of fashion.” Today I stick to those words and add “this is what designers do… they DESIGN!”
No one would have to neither convince me nor force me to buy these clothes if I owned a store and no one could convince me that there is much out there that holds a candle to Mr. Chalayan’s collection. I am reminded of the late Alexander McQueen saying “in order to break the rules you must know them” and Mr. Chalayan can lay claim to both! This collection is modern, chic, innovative and evolving into what might one day become a power house. There are so many design nuances, touches and flourishes that one must wonder how is it that he is the only one who has acted upon the ideas and concepts. One might also think that he may be the only one who has “done” it successfully.
Not for a single moment would I want you to think that the collection is perfection; not at all, but the missteps are minor when faced with the ratio of good to bad … the good and maybe brilliant far outweighs most of the error that comprises the trial and error of designing a new collection every few months. Mr. Chalayan clearly is not the most convincing of evening wear designers but he manages to eke out a few when he steers toward the more minimal side but that can change in heartbeat as I recall in the past that there wasn’t one Italian designer who knew how to design a dress that didn’t look like a uniform of some sort primarily one that was worn by an airline stewardess!
Clearly the clothes are for the “cultivated palette” and not aimed at those seeking immediate attention. These are clothes that are classic in a most unclassic way and have been tweaked and nudged into stylishly beautiful pieces that will remain in one’s wardrobe for many years to come. I am now officially “hooked on Chalayan” and thrilled that I never gave up looking and hoping as it is quite rewarding to find this in a sea of sameness that pervades the world of fashion. The outerwear and tailored pieces are of particular beauty as well as some of the dresses.