In a season where “men are the new women,” Berluti arrives with a refreshing sigh of relief and a respite from the absurdity that has been populating the men’s shows for the past few weeks.
This nascent collection dares to show without a pair shorts in sight, with normal footwear and models that look like men of all ages, with nary a nipple in sight… imagine the novelty of it! It is not to say that the collection will bowl you over or astound you in any way at all, but it makes a distinctive mark this season by being realistically fashionable …. OMG!!! The dreaded “R” word!!!!
The essence of the collection is that this is fashion that has been massaged and contains nuance rather than slapping you in the face with drama or off the hook trend. Yes, the suits are more abbreviated and the pant a bit slimmer and shorter but the workmanship is incredible, the styling chic yet trendy and the overall look is very Lapo Elkann. If you don’t know who that is … just shut the computer down now and walk away.
Words that come to mind after seeing the collection are rakish, dandy, dishabille, slim, natty, monochromatic, haberdashery and stylishly appropriate. Somehow you would be hard pressed to find 6 more collections that befit those words or overall sentiment. Here is another interesting concept that shows up in Berluti in that the collection doesn’t really require explanation, seeing is believing and no blah blah blah needed! … What a concept! … And wearable, to boot... Oooh, the dreaded “W” word!
If this reviewer could have a wish list it would include a bit more color, a bit more than the hinted fashionable more forward underpinnings, a bit more variety of silhouettes, a dash more of slick and an overall feeling of perfectly turned out as in a sharper edge to the clothes. This is much more of a personal preference and am very sure that most opinions will not be colored by these observations or detractions.
Please feel free to pipe in on this !!