Saturday, July 6, 2013

Yulia Yanina Haute Couture fall 2013


Apparently, when designing a collection, the first thing that must be established is a theme that will carry throughout the collection.  To me, the theme must not be present in every single piece but just present enough to encapsulate one large seasonal presentation.

My impressions of Yulia Yanina are these starting with the “leaf” motif or theme has been carried out to such an extent that it became overwhelming.  It seemed that 99% of the pieces incorporated this design element which is a bit overkill, and yes this zealous adherence to the theme showed remarkable design abilities and yet it hindered the overall effect of the collection.

As has been previously stated by me in the past, the use of the ethnic headgear also can be taken as a bit too Russian for most. The cloche like hat combined with the very  unflattering below the knee length gave the collection a sort of 40’s look, and once again as in most cases, the length is not flattering.

 

Ms. Yanina used the tulle/soufflĂ© embellishments last season in her ready to wear with great skill and this season, while still used in  many evening pieces, the look  was decidedly naked and not in the best of taste.  Knowing that these clothes do not come cheaply, one has to wonder why spend all that money to look that cheap?

 

As in any Haute Couture shows, the viewer/critic are always focused on the art and craft that inhabits the world of this particular corner of fashion.  While most of the pieces appeared to have been impeccably constructed there were a few that appeared to woefully in need of help.  My question is very simply this... why show them if they do not live up to the standards that you have set for the collection or why don’t you have them redone until they are 100%?

 
 
In the end I believe that there should have been some fabulous pieces that did not directly and so rigidly make use of the leaf motif and certainly some of the blatantly sexy/shocking evening pieces could have been eliminated.  Every collection requires an editor and certainly Ms. Yanina would have benefitted from one this season