What needs to addressed here immediately is the scope and breadth of the collection as well as the incredibly incredulous use of 21 century fabrications for Spring 2014.
Before the clothes, one must spout off all the immediate iconography that is used… from gladiator/centurion belts, to Roman coins, to the sights of Italy, the wildly beautiful delicate cherry blossom fabric with its many incarnations, the immediately recognizable DNA of the designing duo and lastly their determination to show what is distinctively theirs and build upon it season after season.
Furthermore there is the lace, the dots the shapes and overall image presented by the boys and now the influence of the haute couture throughout the entire collection. Spring, for many years meant polka dots and navy blue and broderie d’anglaise, so the dots work for me big time. Another facet of collection is how seamlessly the selection of patterns have been combined to offer such a cohesive look. The overriding look of the Italian signora has become so much a part of the vocabulary of the collection and that one would find it odd, if that imagery was left out.
The days of the cheesy are gone and they have been replaced by a finely honed version and vision of what comprises Dole & Gabbana. The inspirations are not really important as I have said so many times; the clothes speak for themselves and in the vast majority they say... WHOA!
The biggest deficit in the collection is the appearance of what is supposed to look like fur. It is hardly attractive to my eye nor is it appealing in any of its realizations. The collection would have benefitted greatly by its absence but then again, I am willing to bet that most of it is optional and those unfortunate pieces that are totally made of it can be omitted without detriment.
The overall golden tone and some of the exquisite golden treatments are definitely from the Alta Moda and are equally compelling as some of the pieces from that collection. The matter of texture comes into play with the golds and how they are rendered or achieved with amazing result.
Yes, it is thumbs up here! Not to be missed!!