What needs to addressed here immediately is the scope and
breadth of the collection as well as the incredibly incredulous use of 21
century fabrications for Spring 2014.
Before the clothes, one must spout off all the immediate
iconography that is used… from gladiator/centurion belts, to Roman coins, to
the sights of Italy, the wildly beautiful delicate cherry blossom fabric with
its many incarnations, the immediately recognizable DNA of the designing duo
and lastly their determination to show what is distinctively theirs and build
upon it season after season.
Furthermore there is the lace, the dots the shapes and
overall image presented by the boys and now the influence of the haute couture
throughout the entire collection. Spring, for many years meant polka dots and
navy blue and broderie d’anglaise, so the dots work for me big time. Another facet of collection is how seamlessly
the selection of patterns have been combined to offer such a cohesive look. The overriding look of the Italian signora
has become so much a part of the vocabulary of the collection and that one
would find it odd, if that imagery was left out.
The days of the
cheesy are gone and they have been replaced by a finely honed version and
vision of what comprises Dole & Gabbana.
The inspirations are not really important as I have said so many times;
the clothes speak for themselves and in the vast majority they say... WHOA!
The biggest deficit in the collection is the appearance of
what is supposed to look like fur. It is
hardly attractive to my eye nor is it appealing in any of its
realizations. The collection would have
benefitted greatly by its absence but
then again, I am willing to bet that most of it is optional and those
unfortunate pieces that are totally made of it can be omitted without
detriment.
The overall golden tone and some of the exquisite golden
treatments are definitely from the Alta Moda and are equally compelling as some
of the pieces from that collection. The
matter of texture comes into play with the golds and how they are rendered or
achieved with amazing result.
Yes, it is thumbs up here! Not to be missed!!
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