Monday, September 23, 2013

Gianfranco Ferre .. Spring 2014 ... Milan Collections



Messrs. Piaggi and Citron have slowly come into their own here at the fabled brand.  They have the difficult task of meshing what once was into the 21st century of what is!  Mr.Ferre was above all an architect of fashion, a brilliant technician and a man with a singular vision for his brand.


The current designers have been finding their way and reaching a comfort zone during their tenure and are certainly well aware of the Ferre DNA and vocabulary  by the is time.  My assessment is that the current collection could use a bit more edge and less softening of lines.  This is to say that Piaggi and Citron might have fallen under the influence of Ackerman as well as Ferre and personally I believe they need to push that Ferre envelope still a little harder.


In retrospect or hindsight the Ferre silhouette was razor sharp, every edge could cut glass and he achieved a great overall graphic quality via these hard lines.  While I think the present incarnation of the collection is parallel to the eponymous designer; one has to feel that the distance can still be reduced a bit while still retaining their present individual vision.


In fashion, it can just be a question of nuance or massaging a design that can bring it to full fruition and here maybe it is the length or maybe the width of a belt or possibly the fullness of a pant; I can only express what I sense and what I feel about the clothes which is a very personal overview.


What can be a double edged sword with the reimagining of a brand/designer is when the viewer has already been familiar with the original during its original “lifetime” and became a great fan during that time.  Undoubtedly it colors one’s perceptions and expectations and thusly affects one’s evaluation.


The question is simply did I like it, love it or hate it or am I ambivalent towards it and the reply is simply that yes, I do like it, a lot and I am still confident that these 2 gentlemen will arrive with the correct recipe sooner than later.