Saturday, September 7, 2013

NYFW Spring 2014... Jason Wu


And so it has begun ... another round of endless shows that spans 2 continents and 4 cities.  So here we go with #1 and the lucky one is …..

One of the things that always attracts me to Jason Wu is the knowing that the clothes will be near perfectly rendered and clothes that befit a runway presentation and this season was no different. As always the clothes are beautifully made and actually look like they have been fitted to a model!!


 

The color palette, as Spring usually dictates, is pale without being washed out and with the exception of a few shots of royal blue and black, remained on the pale side. One of the design flourishes that I did take umbrage with is that dropped funnel neck.  The neckline never looks right and is equally hard to pull off in real life. Mr. Wu has played his sexy card much more in recent time but the sheer thing is really getting a bit tired and for designer such as himself, a bit de trop. His sportier pieces actually look as if people will wear them as opposed to so much of what will be seen on the runways in coming days and weeks ... albeit a few more daringly overt styles.


 

In general, I might say there are allusions to YSL, to Gaultier and even to Kors, the last being sort of unfortunate for Mr. Wu.  Being very partial to his tailoring, he did not disappoint even though the silhouette is a bit more relaxed and the shoulder line is not as pronounced... they always look crisp! The tuxedo jumpsuit was pretty hot as was the sleeveless suit which is sort of an iffy statement but looked pretty damned good on the runway.  Keep in mind that Mr. Wu, much like his references, is not a trend designer which is much to his credit.

Without question the white bias slip dress gown is a showstopper even if it does require the perfect body. One might have wished for more in that vein rather than all the sheer all over embroidered pieces. The overall collection was slick but not as slick as he has produced in the past.

 

All in all, this was a definite like and there were some true standout highlights, but this was no rip roaring screamingly fabulous collection. Spring is rarely the season to get crazy with fabulous as the selling season, especially nowadays, is over way before you ever get to wear it. 

Wu is an evolutionary designer who continues to exhibit, I think, what will be! He is rarely neither boring nor controversial but he is always speaking to his customers via his collections. He does do his best to offer a well round categorized collection which is so rare these days.