Rather than try to assess the collections for the never ending season we call pre fall, a novel approach might be to have a more overall summary type of examination of the collections being shown now through March... as I said the never ending season.
Today’s overview includes Gucci, Proenza Schouler, Calvin Klein, Akris, Alexander Wang, Belstaff, Altuzarra and Reed Krakoff. One would think that with designers such as these, you could come up with a stellar collection but alas that assumption is like all other assumptions... just that! A fallacious thought process.
What is apparent here is that these collections are a bit of this and a bit of that and a lot of not much to talk about unless you want to discuss who or what they borrowed from and why or who would buy these clothes. The issue at hand here is that the season is supposed to be about selling clothes and the more basic parts of each collection but what is so severely absent as there is not any single personal signature attached to any one collection.
Here goes … Gucci is wildly reminiscent of Hedi Slimaine’s take on Saint Laurent, Calvin Klein shows us how to look like the Birkenstock, earth mother for 2014, Altazurra does Chloe, Celine and Phoebe and whomever, Proenza Schouler looks like Ghesquiere’s Balenciaga, Alexander Wang shows another collection for the mystery customer, Belstaff is still searching for an identity other than motorcycle leathers, Reed Krakoff shows us odd parings, odd proportions and clunky shoes and the shining star is Akris who displays clothes for women; women who are chic, woman who are stylish, women who want fabulously made timeless clothes and women who appreciate the meaning of modern.
All you need do is look at the slide show and hopefully you can draw the same conclusions. The thing that must not be overlooked here is that there ARE clothes that ARE wearable and appealing; you would just have a hard time pairing a look with a designer. The collections have become more generic than anything else and the designers seem to be searching for an antidote to lackluster business.
Opinions?? Let me know …..