Monday, September 30, 2013

Saint Laurent Spring 2014 Paris Collections

If one had to venture a guess here, the guess would be that someone told Hedi darling to dial it down a notch or two or that door he entered though will be the same he uses to depart.

Don’t get the wrong idea and think  that the clothes are vastly improved but them again everything is relative and in relation to his last outing this is a lot better, albeit still not what you might hope for.  The clothes bear a very vague relation that they might have been conceived from what were once the DNA and house codes of YSL.  One has to wonder if the relationship is coincidental rather than intentional.

Again, do not misconstrue the words and sentiments; he is a long away from capturing any kind of chic or swagger, the taste and class that once flooded YSL runways compliments of Yves and company.  Mr. Slimane might have to reconsider the roach picker toes of his shoes and the really... lurex anklets... talk about dated and bad ideas... somehow there is a huge disconnect.  Then, of course, there are the crotch grazing lengths and his heroin/punk/rocker chic models but those are easy to fix in comparison to his overall vision of the new Saint Laurent.

At some point very soon, Mr. Slimane might have to find another YSL icon other than a motorcycle jacket, a pencil skirt, a sheer blouse, a smoking and a shrunken blazer.  At the very least he might have to figure out how to extrapolate those pieces and create a new vocabulary for the brand.  Frankly, I must say I don’t think the man is up to the task.

Rather than just beat this dead horse senseless, one can live in hope that maybe, just maybe,  someone, anyone, might suggest to his highness that the vision of the reimagined brand has been more forever 21 than Bergdorf’s and  if that’s what he wants then he should continue down this nasty path. Please take note of his one legged pant/dress and pink bubble dress, flame tube top and hot pink striped tube top paired with leopard…YIKES!

Bon chance a tous!

Sunday, September 29, 2013

Givenchy .. Spring 2014.. Paris Collections

There is no point in discussing DNA or house codes of the brand as there are none any longer.  Even worse is that apparently they change every season unless it is some image slapped onto a $1000 tee shirt?  So it is of no particular shock to me that firstly, for Spring, the collection by Tisci is overwhelmingly fallish for the most part ad bears little if any to any collections in his repertoire.

Ignoring the theatrical flourishes of silly makeup and which I am sure reflect some more arcane inspirations and the ridiculous foot wear, to say that the clothes for the most part are over executed over designed and heavy handed in the amount of draping would be a great understatement.

Buried amidst all the hoo haa and junk there are a few extraordinary pieces which speak to the true talents of the designer rather than his theatrical abilities and his way of shocking the so called fashion press and having them drink his kool aid.

When I see a collection like this, I am so conflicted as to what the purpose and why does one project themselves as a ring master rather than a first rate designer especially if you do indeed possess the skills.  What is the purpose in a  collection where a good deal of the clothes look like you need a road map to get into them and are so over worked that they begin to look amateurish rather than professional?  What is the real purpose of creating all this stuff that no one will wear except Rihanna and a few others who get it for free... and wont Kim Kardashian West look fetching in those second skin bias cut jerseys?? Mmmmmmmmmmmmmm tasty, don’t you think?  Especially since she is peroxided blonde these days!!

Well that’s  all I can say as no doubt the fassholes will be all over this like white on rice as if Cristobal Balenciaga has been reborn and to be honest if it a waste of my breath to go on ..

Andrew Gn .. Spring 2014 .. Paris Collections

Having just seen the Spring 2014, the first thing that crossed my mind is” how come some designers, this time, Andrew Gn, make it look so easy and effortless to design beautiful clothes?”  there is no mistaking the modern art references, in particular Braque’s and Matisse and yet even though they are not exactly first timers in the inspiration sweepstakes, the influence is handled so beautifully as to only  remind the viewer that we have seen the influence before. Simply said, these clothes don’t look like the YSL collections that were likewise inspired.

The palette is heavily concentrated in black and white and the clothes are just edgy enough to suggest a younger vision of the Gn lady.  That is not to say he left his original ladies behind, but he has expanded his reach in a very organic and natural way.  These clothes are graphic, maybe geometric, crisp and clean while incorporating the decorative nature of Mr. Gn’s design philosophy.  The thematic expressions of his clothes play second to the clothes themselves.

The styling is so pitch perfect yet I am just not sure about those platform shoes, as I really think they don’t jive with the modernity of the collection.  There is one exit that just says it all; from the trim of the short to the patterning of the belt … it just all works.  For some it may look contrived, for, it just looks as it should … well assembled!

The overall look of the clothes is just divine as the finish is flawless and it shows and it just screams rich and luxurious without ever being confused as a neon sign for conspicuous consumption.  These are clothes that send a silent signal for refinement, craftsmanship and great chic.  The silhouettes and shapes are clean, nothing tricky, just beautiful clothes.

Jean Paul Gaultier .. Spring 2014 .. Paris Collections

How can it be that the once “enfant terrible” of fashion who  is no longer an “enfant” but just as “terrible” is one of the very few who can  consistently surpass so many of the so called new talents and make them look TERRIBLE as in bad ..  not “mechant”!

You want street he gives you street, you want athletic references, he gives you athletic references, you want innovation he gives you innovation, you want Saint Laurent, he gives you that too and he does it better than the rest  as he always retains 2 things… his love of his craft and his sense of humor.  The latter is a quality that is in short supply as too many takes themselves way too seriously.

Whereas Galliano was all about the spectacle and big picture and drama of his presentations at Dior, Gaultier is all about the spectacle of fun ... you never lose focus on the clothes.  Maybe simply said that the clothes at Dior were part of a tableaux or ensemble cast and the clothes at JPG are singular stars.
Gaultier touches every trend, every look and every whim in his own way and he never loses sight of the brand’s DNA which is so much more than I can say about so many we have seen in recent days.  Even more apparent is that Monsieur Gaultier never has to twist words and spout the esoteric to sound so important, he just throws it at  you and there is no confusion ... in essence he is literally a  man of his words!!

Favorites include the JPG standby riffs on a trench coats, the one legged pant and his audacity!  The spiraling ruffle dresses were divinely fun as were the chain mail and fringe. You just have to love when he does his stripe tee shirt and beret routine as it just howls GAULTIER.  Beyond the surface appearance of these clothes lies the technical mastery and amazing design prowess of the designer and his team and for that he is to be admired always.

Saturday, September 28, 2013

Haider Ackemann ... Spring 2014 ... Paris Collections

Well it is not a happy moment when you realize a designer might have run out of steam or possibly has been influenced too much by what he sees and those around him.  Haider Ackermann blasted onto the fashion map not that long and won over everyone who had the last bit of taste and fashion knowledge.  The impeccable color sense, the mastery at tailoring, draping and layering all rendered at the platinum level.

Apparently Mr. Ackermann and Mr. Elbaz have shared the same piece goods  room and remarkably have chosen “the international lurex festival” as their overriding option for Spring 2014.  Since my reviews do not pay much attention to inspirations and press releases … WTF are you thinking here?

Yes I get it, you found your Capucci moment and yes you definitely took the time to show off your tailoring skills but jeez you veered off course with gratuitous transparency and over the top gratuitous sexy tops and other gimmicks that do not befit your original DNA.

Do you think Cathy or Suzy or Shooting Blanks might know that those fanned out accents will hang straight to the ground once the hand is removed from the pocket or that lurex when mushroom pleated like that is as stiff as a board to the point of almost having a life of its own?? Well, do ya??

The Annie Hall 2014 version looked great in comparison to the rest of the pile but Mr., Ackermann is either trying to forge a new path or he simply pooped out and the answer won’t be known until Fall 2014.  There were a few all black pieces that looked exquisite but somehow out of place in a collection that would have used them as underpinnings in previous forays. 

Once again, we have a designer who is either in transition or might be at a crossroads.  It will be interesting to see how this “fans” out... and yes, pun intended! BTW, do you think he had tulle fit??