Let it be said now that there is a love hate thing going on
between me and these collections. Well, not really hate but my disposition
towards these collections is rather erratic due to their inconsistencies in
design and philosophy. This season however there is a lot to love from each no
matter what the so called DNA might be or whatever they supposedly stand for,
there are clothes to be worn by women of style.
Although Antonio Berardi
seemed to be stuck on his Balenciaga references, there were some beautiful
clothes that one might even imagine a female human being wearing and looking
like a human being rather than some fashion freak. In today’s world that is
saying something. There was evidence here that this designer designed with
imagination and not just regurgitation.
Vionnet is one
those resurrected collections that must be looked upon as a brand with no
historical DNA other than the name. This season apparently someone did some
homework and came up with the pleating idea and it yielded some pretty clothes.
Despite the pepto pink, some of which was even pretty, there was something to
sink your teeth into here. As I said I was liking what I saw this season and
just wish they could find an identity which would contain some of the original
DNA as well as some of the reimagined brand. The palette was most appealing
while the styling left a lot to be desired.
Nina Ricci, the
long revered and historically lady like jolie femme collection has certainly
morphed over the years. In its present incarnation, Nina Ricci is young
sophisticated and somewhat chic in a very off handed way. What is most
distracting is the choice of styling which lends itself to a just laid look.
The dishabille factor does nothing to enhance the clothes and in some instances
takes the viewer’s imagination on a rather erotic journey of this young woman
collecting her clothes in the morning all ready for he walk of shame. For me,
it is a collection that must be cherry picked and offers a retailer a real
opportunity to build a new breed of “designer” customer.
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