Immediate reaction is that the overall look is a bit
disappointing in terms of styling. This season the models look bit dishabille
rather than the usual sharp polished urbane countenance. In recognition of
that, one might say it makes sense given the overall relaxed and comme il faut qualities
of the collection.
Make no mistake that this collection is a HUGE story of
jackets; some new some old friends and all of them pure Armani. Whether in
wools, cashmere, leather or fancy, the story of tailoring is front and center.
One almost doesn’t notice what is being worn on the bottom even though mostly
pants are shown. A couple of dresses are stand outs but again very simple, very
toss it on and be done, no really accessories just good clothes. By and large
this is not one of those collections that leaves you slack jawed and drooling
but again it demonstrates that designers who do what they do best can deliver
salable wearable collections that are not boring or pedestrian.
Please do not think that there were no clunkers here as
there certainly were but all is forgiven when the overall result is as good as
this. One other detriment, in my eyes, is the choice of that green shade which
I find so abrasive and unappealing but then again, Mr. Armani can make me
accept it much easier than most. I am a big fan of grey so you will hear no
complaints about that and he uses a perfect cast of grey that is not warm but
clean and cool to the eye.
If a grading system was to be put in place, I’d give it 85
out of 100 and be happy that Mr. Armani is an oasis of chic and sensibility in
a sea of confusion.
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