One of the great things about fashion is that it can be full of surprises. In what universe might you think that the words restraint, conservative, sportif and soigne would ever be applied to a collection of Philipp Plein? In other words ... a pig just flew by my window … again!
Please don’t get the wrong impression that Mr. Plein has deserted the DNA and vocabulary that catapulted him to fame and success but what he has done is to rein it in to a much more palatable point where the over the top quotient has been drastically reduced. You might think I am describing a drastically more sedate collection than in the past when it fact what you get to see is Plein shining by doing what he does best and that is showing off. Designers design!!
The Spring collection is rife with salable, that awful word again, signature Plein and offers a view of the designer without all the bells and whistles that we are accustomed to seeing each season. There are the obligatory lacerated jeans and the plentiful use of croco as well as oceans of studs and rock star flourishes but what suddenly becomes blatantly apparent here is that here are real clothes that don’t hide behind the embellishments. I was enamored with the denim blazers, the tennis and striped sweaters, the use of bouillon emblems and the vast selection of jackets. Even the signature skull and cross bones has been downplayed to great effect as if mimicking those embroidered pants from Brooks Brothers of long ago. His whole take on Spring is very refreshing with nauticals and red, white and blue and denims.
I would like to say I am impressed with this collection and hope that it is a harbinger of what’s to come in the future. Mr. Plein has surely done his homework and he has tamed his designs without diluting or redefining who he is and that would be a big BRAVO to him! Without question, he chose a far more difficult path than a total reinvention and he pulled it off seamlessly.
PS … Philipp Plein is coming to a lucky city near you … very soon …. Hint …. Bi-coastal!