Wednesday, July 9, 2014

Alexandre Vauthier Haute Couture ... fall 2014/5

Alexandre Vauthier is a designer who tends to push the envelope. Alexandre Vauthier is a designer who has expanded the vocabulary of the Haute Couture by contributing his audacious, brazen and 21st century fashion to its dictionary. Haute Couture celebrates the art and craft of fashion along with unique design and construction but rarely is the concept of sexy applied to this rarefied world. With his steamy and sensual collections, Vauthier has amended the lexicon of Haute Couture by combing all of the above!

Vauthier pushes the envelope season and after season … well ... okay, he shoves it when it comes to couture but he is always true to himself and he shows us that sexy can be sensual and even erotic without looking like trashy cheap thrills. (sic Donatellamommamia) I was told that “one never knows how they grew up until they have grown up” and Monsieur Vauthier’s rearing is evident here. The skills and techniques that were honed chez Mugler and Gaultier are advantageously utilized in a collection of this ilk.

From the simplest of sexiest of jerseys to the most amazingly innovative laser cut pony skin, we are talking hot. These are not the clothes of wallflowers; these are the clothes of hey look at me and look what I am wearing … and I mean that in the most complimentary way. In a business where youth is celebrated if not assigned iconic stature, Vauthier still stands alone as there are no cheap tricks here and make no mistake, you better have a rockin body. Cases in point here are the excruciatingly amazingly gorgeous pearl encrusted pieces and the astoundingly sizzling red stones dress. Vauthier puts the HAUTE in haute couture by pressing Lesage into action and yielding showstoppers that will endure beyond just a single red carpet.

Another... well... some more aspects of the collection are that Vauthier seems to be able to make the clothes look  like “ oh I just threw this on” but I mean it in the best possible and maybe I mean to say they don’t look forced and they don’t need accessorizing other than great body and simple evening shoes and bag. If I have not mentioned his superb tailoring, then let me say that is it here and shining through so many of the styles. Another striking moment came when I realized that there are very few designers (ahem Raffie) who can show a grey jumpsuit and make it so slickly sexy and inviting …… and no explanation necessary…. Mmmmmm Raffie!  One more ... The deep vee polka dot gown…. Deefirgginvine!

For the seasoned observer, this is collection that is full of surprises and rarely disappoints. Of course it is difficult for the those so called critics of the 3 day resume to appreciate the archival prints from Clerici or the old world craftsmanship of the collection but suffice it to say I tip my hat to you Alexandre on all counts!

My PS here is that the peekaboo gowns were a bit over the top and not entirely necessary as were the shin guards but he did breathe some new life into the bandage dress! Last observation … promise.. Amazing that when you are fixed on the clothes you don’t even notice the models’ faces!