WHOA! Let’s get this straight right from the get go. For his
freshman outing at the brand, Marco Zanini presented this highly generic and
not even mildly referenced collection which to my eye was … well... meh! To say
that Suzy Muchless and I saw different collections is an understatement. This
season he not only hit the DNA button
but he slammed it with a leaden hand and maybe he fell on it! Me thinks that
the ES was a nice touch …once! The hats would have been fab if they were not on
the head of EVERY model, but it was the heart that was most successfully played
out albeit not every time!
This go round provided us with Elsa Schiaparelli circa the
decade of the 40’s and is complete with supersized broad shoulders, chubbies
and over exaggerated dressmaking. The clothes suffered really by being direct
copies rather than inspired by or referenced to and that is an invitation to
disaster. .. Not to mention we went a wee bit overboard with the very
Schiaparelli inspired accessories. .. Ya think? Let’s call this a visual
gluttony of sorts. What comes to mind is “what she couldn’t wear, she carried!”
I understand that the designer is still trying to gain his
footing and put his imprimatur on the brand but hell, he didn’t have to do a
180. Honestly, it is a lot of overdone and over conceived clothes. Haute
Couture is all about perfection in the details and the exquisite manufacture of
a garment but my eyes saw a lot of
sloppily made pieces that really didn’t live up to the hype of the season.
Please take note here that even if the clothes were flawlessly designed, poorly
rendered pieces are ... well ... inexcusable!
Okay, so calming down here, I can say that there were some
beautiful dresses albeit retro in feeling and some beautiful embellishments but
overall this is much more of a costume wardrobe for a period movie than it is a
collection of clothes for the so called modern 21st century couture
client. The happy medium, when it comes to the overall timbre of the collection
has not yet been found … or at least I hope it hasn’t been found, so I remain
hopeful. What strikes me is that when YSL did the 40s collection and everyone
was up in arms over it, the clothes still retained a slick chic about them as
was the case with Ungaro as well but that has not happened here save for maybe
5 pieces. Then if I really wrack my brain here I see an awful of what reminded
me of Gaultier who might have been referencing Schiaparelli in his collections
expect JPG did it better!
Well, all I can say is Bon Chance Marco! Better luck next
time!
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