Sunday, September 28, 2014

Céline by Phoebe Philo .. Paris ..spring 2015



This is a collection whose appeal evades most often but this season there is an odd appeal that can’t really be put into words but here goes….




The collection evokes a or stirs a feeling that it has matured as in grown up not so much with a specific age in mind. The clothes are yes, modern, IMHO, but without being offensively minimal or trying too hard. They appear to be well designed up to a point and that point would be there just might be a few too many flying panels and or excess flourishes. Those button through strips seem a bit de trop as does that fold over detail which in reality won’t look like that since the wearer will not pin down her arm under the fold. That little porthole dead center is, well, silly but not a deal breaker. What is somewhat amusing is the stitch tracery effect that was used a few seasons ago at Bottega Veneta and possibly in a few men’s collections if not mistaken, but again not a deal breaker as it looks good against the shapes where it was used. Ms. Philo apparently has some issue with prints as it just didn’t jive to have a sort of inane floral paired with what seems to be a rather stylish presentation for the season.




Overall the collection is visually appealing and some of the frou frou effects are amusing but might have been put to better use if the placement wasn’t so forced and a bit more conventional i.e. not such wide bands at the hems or on the hips! There is an ease of wearing factor which certainly plays into what has been seen and well received this season especially when handled deftly which this is for a change. My opinion seems to be colored that Ms. Philo designed a collection doesn’t seem to be forced or trying to be hippest, the latest, the greatest. My own personal reaction is... Excuse me ... salable, commercial and fashionable! All those dirty words that spell $$



PS. Ms. Philo certainly has made a pitch here for the “Spring Coat” which is surely something that hasn’t happened anywhere in many years