Friday, September 19, 2014

Milano Antipasto .. Spring 2015.. Fendi, Prada, Moschino, D Squared, Max Mara



With the tsunami of shows that is now fashion week in every city, it seems necessary to do a few group reviews or commentaries rather than spotlight one particular brand or designer. What also happens is that there are some who rarely rate any favorable words and are becoming rather boring when it comes to reviewing. Then there some brands that look good but there is still not enough substance to substantiate a full-fledged review so in order to accommodate all of the above today is the Milan Antipasto.

Max Mara: this has always been the collection to look at within its specific group and this season is no different. The issue here is not he clothes, it is the terribly confusing and ridiculous way it has been styled. One can’t appreciate the beautiful clothes because the viewer is rendered with a bad case of vertigo due to all the pattern on pattern styling. Some solids would surely have been a great antidote not to mention that one might have actually been able to see the clothes. I mean look at it!!


Moschino: now that Elle Woods, Paris Hilton and Barbie have wardrobes, what will the rest of the Moschino clients do? When Mr. Scott runs out of sight gags and asinine themes what will happen? His only bright spots seem to be when he mines, read copies, the archives which can be very tiresome for those who have more than 20 minutes resumes. One has to wonder who will actually pay good money to wear “doll” clothes. And not to mention the exact Ungaro knock offs... shameful


Fendi: has always been this enigma to me as Karl uses it as some kind of design laboratory for himself and his ever percolating imagination. It is one of those collections that runs hot and cold and most realize that the house/ brand is built on furs and handbags and not apparel. There has never been any consistency here BUT when it is good or running hot, it is really good and “scalding.” The interesting thing is that recently the collection has been looking good in a very off the beaten track kind of way and due to Karl’s endless imagination, there is a lot to see if you can filter out the so called” bad apple.” My thoughts here are that Fendi is rarely about or specific look or direction.


Dsquared²: usually they are one of my whipping posts and this season is actually more of the same. What is so troublesome to me is that the boys really do have talent but it is obscured by all the “look at me look at me” antics that have become their shows. When the Catens do presentation rather than shows, the clothes are usually shocking in their polish and style and then come the circus like theatrics of the shows. Too bad they can’t consistently shows clothes that befit the brand rather than all the peripheral shock jock styling to garner attention.


Prada: there is very little one can say about the brand and its mistress. She is the queen of ugly clothes and is proud of it. To me she is a marketing sham that thinks her words are pearls of wisdom and can explain away the heinous rags she offers season and after season. No matter what, she lives up to her words about never wanting to make a woman look beautiful… well guess what... one more time she succeeds but alas this time the clothes are just deadly boring  rather than the usual spectacle she creates with her absurd deliberately awkward styling which garners editorial praise and coverage. One can only imagine how much the brand gives away to insure such notice!