Saturday, September 27, 2014

Mugler by David Koma.. Paris ..spring 2015



 Let’s talk Mugler! Mugler 2015! David Koma might just be the one to revive the name and bring it into the 21st century. Unquestionably this collection is head and shoulders about anything that that the hack Formichetti had produced under the name during his gleefully abbreviated tenure.

It was my understanding that Monsieur Mugler himself handpicked Mr. Koma and apparently he was quite prescient with his selection. The new designer of the brand has in one moment polished the house’s reputation after being tarnished by a media anointed designer, well actually not a designer at all... let’s just say someone who had no business to be at the helm in the first place. He had a much more personal agenda than a plan for a fabled heritage brand.

Spring 2015 brings vitality and life back to the once highly coveted brand and restores the gloss to its history. Koma has unquestionably visited the archives and also added a bit of what constitutes fashion in the 21st century. Personally, the loose fitting or more fluid pieces were not my favorites but hardly eyesores either. No matter the silhouette the theme or unifying thread of the show continued seamlessly. 

The snake chain detail was employed with deft hand and sparingly so that it was merely a detail and not a crucial element of design. Again, this was part of the thread that held the collection together quite cohesively. Interestingly, the tailored pieces were sharp clean edged affairs but never as extreme as the originals and yet rang very true to the house DNA. The palette worked with the exclusion of the print which might have been perceived as a bit de trop or possibly forced rather than essential to the overall presentation.

Keep in mind that the original Thierry Mugler designed collections were filled with high drama and rigid standards and constructions that he created and maintained during his tenure and Koma has softened up the edges and sort of democratized them, if you catch my drift, to result in a highly commercial and well-conceived collection. OOPSY... I said that dirty word again... commercial. 
Hopefully those who are smart enough will be able to see the viability and retail opportunities that this collection now offers.

The question is if this was a groundbreaking collection and the answer is simply no! This is a collection that can pave the way back and open the brand to a whole new audience who can appreciate its esthetic. I’ll take 1 of these against 10 Rabanne’s or 5 Dior’s or any Wang Balenciaga’s. Does that tell you my reaction?

PS ..it is interesting to note that Mr. Mugler’s presentations were highly accessorized including hair and makeup while Mr. Koma showed confidently with nothing to distract from the clothes.