Elie Saab is not exactly synonymous with the term rebel but for Pre-Fall 2015 he does sort of throwaway the rule book and forge his own path. As has been stated so many times before, Pre-Fall is not a season that is customarily fraught with innovation, but a selling tool that has a long shelf life and usually includes a greatest hits kind of scenario. Let me be clear, yes, there are lots of what Saab is so very well known for but he stretches his vocabulary and flexes his design muscles as well.
For, this season Saab offers a terse and very convincing presentation of what he does best and that is to produce immaculately conceived and finished clothes for women who want the best. The clothes sort of scream or rather raise their voice” and yet they remain perfectly Saab meaning they are urbane, chick, slick, luxe, soigne and precise.
With that said there are amazing pieces such a scorching red gown and blush "onesie" with a serpentine ruffle, a chicer than chic blush ensemble complete with broadtail skirt, an astounding black coat that is so heavily embroidered and cut out and plenty of laces and beaded pieces that will no doubt tempt the most loyal of Saab ladies. There are several pieces that combine crepe and lace which are just about as good as it gets but then there is the print which is a bit disturbing but them again any print in any collection is so very personal.
Mr. Saab is to be commended as he segments his collections by their content. Ready to wear always includes daywear of which he is quickly developing a look and a client and then in Haute Couture it is all about evening from the simplest to the most dramatic and embellished. Neither of these suffers as Saab is so focused and he has refined and clarified his signatures so clearly to the point that they are unmistakably Elie Saab.