Elie Saab is not
exactly synonymous with the term rebel but for Pre-Fall 2015 he does sort of throwaway
the rule book and forge his own path. As has been stated so many times before,
Pre-Fall is not a season that is customarily fraught with innovation, but a selling
tool that has a long shelf life and usually includes a greatest hits kind of
scenario. Let me be clear, yes, there are lots of what Saab is so very well
known for but he stretches his vocabulary and flexes his design muscles as
well.
For, this season Saab offers a terse and very convincing presentation
of what he does best and that is to produce
immaculately conceived and finished clothes for women who want the best. The
clothes sort of scream or rather raise their voice” and yet they remain
perfectly Saab meaning they are urbane, chick, slick, luxe, soigne and precise.
With that said there
are amazing pieces such a scorching red
gown and blush "onesie" with a serpentine ruffle, a chicer
than chic blush ensemble complete with broadtail skirt, an astounding black
coat that is so heavily embroidered and cut out and plenty of laces and beaded
pieces that will no doubt tempt the most loyal of Saab ladies. There are
several pieces that combine crepe and lace which are just about as good as it
gets but then there is the print which
is a bit disturbing but them again any print in any collection is so very
personal.
Mr. Saab is to be commended as he segments his collections
by their content. Ready to wear always includes daywear of which he is quickly developing
a look and a client and then in Haute Couture it is all about evening from the
simplest to the most dramatic and embellished. Neither of these suffers as Saab
is so focused and he has refined and clarified his signatures so clearly to the
point that they are unmistakably Elie Saab.
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