Tuesday, January 13, 2015

Burberry Prorsum .. Kilgour Fall 2015 .. men's collections London



Though not really fan of Christopher Bailey/Burberry Prorsum, it would be foolish of me to ignore or not to acknowledge his men’s collection for Fall 2015. The collection is surely not for shy but there are so many options or pieces or look that saying the collection is too this or too that would be foolish. 


This being Fall and this being Burberry, there is a heavy concentration of outerwear and in my mind there is a more than usual heavy concentration on accessories and patterns. Bailey uses color as a rule but such a diverse palette of patterns is rare especially in menswear or you are Dries. Who of the fashionphiles cannot love bandana prints, camouflage, leopard, scarves, totes and those mirrored Indian inspired pieces. It is all great fun and offers a more fashion point of view rather than some cerebral imagining produced to satisfy the ego of a designer; simply said there are lots of clothes to wear that require no explanation! If there is a drawback it is simply that the clothes are and accessories are stratospherically expensive and therefore will reach a minuscule audience BUT the trickle down will be felt and seen elsewhere!


Let’s talk about what might equate to haute Couture or better known as bespoke menswear. Let’s talk about a small collection of tailored clothes designed by Carlo Brandelli under the brand of Kilgour. If one can imagine a cross between Ferre and Mugler and possibly even Hedi, when he first did YSL, then you might be able to conjure the exquisite quality of these clothes. They are razor sharp, modern, minimal not boring, architectural, spare, rigid and linear. These are clothes for the slimmer of us but no matter as there is no point in a mass appeal. Oddly enough, the looks are quite reminiscent of the tailoring we have seen in ladies’ collections from times gone by but that does not mean we are speaking about anything feminine. Photos will tell the story and even if this is a personal preference, is it safe to say … MORE!!! .. Better than any Raf or Hedi or Nicky! These are clothes that stand the test of time rather than a moment in time.