Saturday, January 17, 2015

Ermenegildo Zegna by Stefano Pilati fall 2015



The funny thing is that Stefano Pilati was the topic of conversation this past week and my biggest observation is that he looks or seems so comfortable at Ermenegildo Zegna. This is meant in the most complimentary of ways as the collections have never looked better and never before exuded such a modern yet classic aura. The collections are filled with nuance rather than the latest trend and that alone sets him and the brand apart.


For fall there is shine! There is tonality! There are clothes that are ageless and modern! This is a riff on classic Italian tailoring without distorting or pulverizing the DNA of the brand. Think about that if you will!! The tonal velvets were chic as hell when it would be so easy for them to have been tacky as hell, the banded neck or cardigan blazers might have looked retro 80’s but they look fresh and very 21st century and that shine or maybe luster is more accurate might have gone off the charts to tacky but it remains a subtle touch.



In essence, Pilati shows the fashion world that there is a way to update or modernize or at lack of a better word... “Fashionize” a brand without turning it into a mockery and for that alone he deserves the greatest of praise. If there is a gripe about the presentation, one might just question the fanny packs and the front worn back packs but such is the wont of most designers to inject these stylistic flourishes when doing a show. That being said, what remains are clothes …. Suitings and sportswear that befit the heritage of the brand and show off the skills of the designer.


PS... The overall silhouette has certainly loosened up... yes there are some slimmer... not skinny... Looking suits but overall the look is looser and more relaxed... not sloppy... and much more wearer friendly and less restrictive