When Lanvin was first reimagined, the clothes for both men’s
and women’s has an edge, a chic about them as well as being sophisticated, cosmopolitan
and urbane. Apparently that has eroded to trendy which as stripped the
collections of their polish. This is not to say the clothes or collections are
bad or subpar, just that the original vision has become less focused on being
slick and more on being media sweethearts!
Here’s a brief synopsis or overview: loose, looser, loosest,
difficult high waisted pants especially if ones waist exceeds 32 and you are vertically
challenged but those are the deficits. Now, in the asset column is the color
palette, some very distinctive pieces such as the cardigan shearlings, some odd
fur pieces and the general comme il faut attitude. Maybe the casting of models
has distracted my eyes as somehow it is difficult to assess a collection when shown
on slumping, round shouldered youth ... the least they can do is stand straight
when they lope down a runway. Not to mention this androgynous sort of sexless
way that clothes are presented doesn’t help. It is possible that the collection
might have a kind of louche quality to if it had not been for this dishabille
look which makes the boys look dirty rather than sexy.
In essence what has happened is that the collection is now
skewed young rather than ageless and has acquired that trendoidal essence which
to me is not necessarily an asset and surely limits its appeal. There is a
rumor around that the brand is for sale or being shopped around and one would just
have to wonder why that is if the collections are as well received as the so
called media tells us!
PS save for a few leather pieces and a few tee shirts this
is another yawn
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