My overview of this collection is as follows:
The design team is definitely focused on the classical glories of haute couture in a somewhat reverential way as well as nostalgically. There apparently are references to some of the greats of this métier: most apparently Dior, of the Christian variety and then some, Balenciaga thrown in to the mix. It is important to note as this is the couture of workmanship and craft and not so much about design that will set the world on fire.
The clothes are apparently perfectly executed in that very classical manner... Everything is precise; every detail has been taken to its limit, perhaps the clothes are too rigid in their overall look. There were some stand out pieces such as the mille feuilles cocktail dress and a couple of flawlessly constructed gazar (I think) gowns. What might have added some excitement here would have been some stronger colorations and some diversity in tones. Except for the black styles, so much seems to just be so tonal so monochromatic as to detract from the beauty of it all. What I am trying to say tis that the lack of color causes a monotony of sorts where all the style seems to run in to one another and that is unfortunate.
Without question these 2 have a flair for the dramatic with opera coats and the ubiquitous high low hemline. One longed for intense contrasts or blasts of colors. One can only imagine what would have been if the palette had been different. For me, these two surely deserve more attention in the future as the potential is there but the “journey” seems a bit misguided at the moment. One thing did enter my mind more so here than most collections and that is “do women really want to wear clothes such as these?”