Wednesday, March 11, 2015

Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton fall 2015



Here’s the mindset”: The Owl and the Pussycat (Streisand), Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow (Loren), The Night Porter (Rampling) and then McQueen, Galliano, Tisci, Lacroix and La Perla! Put it all together and whaddya got …. ???

Sarah Burton once again paid faithful homage to her friend Alexander McQueen, but this time she leaned on the side of commercially beautiful and comprehensible without losing any of the DNA. This is a task that where so many would fail but none are as familiar with the codes of the house as she. What struck me first were the fabrications which were glorious; from the black on black cellophane brocades to the eye lash brocades to the most fragile of lace and then all balanced with embossed leathers, bonded leathers and patent leather.


The razor sharp tailoring of McQueen was front and center as the selection of coats and jackets, specifically 2 blush brocade pieces, were a never ending source of beauty of exhibition of craft. The rigidity of the tailoring balances with the softness of most dresses made for a collection that captured the spirit and essence of the man and his brand. Of course the leather pieces are as amazing as ever as no one crafts skins as this house and with the greatest of ease and endless possibilities.


Of, course there had to be some extraordinary pieces and yes there were!  The “ode to a rose” pieces rivaled pieces from any great Haute Couture collection and the leathers that incorporated the flower in the hems were nothing short of astounding feats of technique and abilities. The last series of gowns was very beautiful but I keep going back to the coats, the tailoring, and those rose pieces.


Romantic? ... Yes… very McQueen? Yes ... Commercial? … Well as commercial as McQueen could ever be… so, Thank You Sarah Burton for a bright spot in the Paris collections and for being so loyal to your friend who lives on through you!

PS it really does help when the viewer is not distracted by the theatrics of fright make up and shoes that defy physical capabilities!