Saturday, March 7, 2015

Maison Margiela by John Galliano .. fall 2015 pfw

OMG! OMG! OMG! He is back! OPMG he is so fabulous! We missed him! This is beyond words. No one designs like him … this is spectacular... divine... earth shattering... momentous... brought me to tears... to die for... no one can do what he does.. Genius... brilliant... OMG! OMG! OMG!  And those are just some of the milder accolades that might have been heard from the front row and the legions of fawners who have come out to worship their god. One can be sure they handed out drip trays to be placed under the seats in the front row and digitalis for sheer excitement of it all ….

Fortunately for me, these eyes see clothes and not blah blah blah and not all the bull that surrounds this collection. Okay, I admit I was a huge fan of what Galliano did at Dior, not as real fashion but as the art and craft of fashion and the theatrics than can be achieved via an immense imagination and an equally immense and bottomless budget. That being said, this show was all about the theater of fashion and keeping that in mind theatrics are not fashion... Clothes are fashion... Yes it is a business of selling clothes... Sad as that is... it is a fact. So, if you strip away the absurdity of it all what are you left with?

Granted, I have never been a fan of the brand nor do I pretend to understand the cult-like adoration of the house. I openly admit that the only reason I am reviewing the collection is to assess the collection that happens to be designed by John Galliano which means the brand is secondary. Alas, I would be a fool to really think that the DNA of the brand is not present and I am perfectly aware of that. Intellectually, I get it, in reality terms, no I don’t!

What I see is a bunch of clothes that reflect the brand as well as the new designer who injects some of his own esthetic to the final product. With all this being said... now I am guilty of the blah blah blah but I feel it only fair to explain my mind set…. Which means this review is  highly subjective while trying to be objective! To me, these clothes are costumes which I am sure will be scooped up by the blindly adoring but in terms of real clothes of any kind, I don’t see much. Where does one wear these clothes? No I get where one wears a coat. I don’t get why the satins look like a dollar a mile triacetate. I don’t get the crooked stitching that is visible on almost every garment. No, I don’t get unfinished hems and torn holes. YES I see the details such as the bows at the hem of the cropped pants and some beautiful tailoring... yes I see some  Galliano moments and flourishes. Yes, I can see some beauty in the pieces that don’t fall over the cliff but is this nothing more than a new John Galliano collection who will soon reign without the encumbrance of an affiliated brand?

I have no more to say other than the circus like atmosphere reminds me of a bad McQueen tossed to together with some kind of drag queen freak show. The question is this, will I come to love it and possibly “get it” or will I forever be shaking my head?

PS I am prepared to take the flack that will dome along with this review so have at it!