Thursday, March 5, 2015

Vionnet fall 2015 Paris Collections

And I quote... Madeleine Vionnet was called the "Queen of the bias cut" and "the architect among dressmakers", Vionnet is best known today for her elegant Grecian-style dresses and for popularizing the bias cut within the fashion world and is credited with inspiring a number of recent designers.

Let me say this about that! The great legacy that is Madeleine Vionnet is not what I call honored in the present day collections from this fabled and legendary brand. Let’s say that Madame/Мисс. Goga has built a house on hubris rather than DNA or vocabulary. One must postulate that the name Goga Ashkenazi doesn’t exactly inspire awe, reverence or any attention at all and well… with good reason, even with a team of 5.

In a collection that bears little to no relation to the once legendary house, Fall 2015 is a collection that apparently is designed by committee and worse than that looks it! From S&M like harnesses to furry slippers and slides... again... to gladiator like knee highs still to ill fitting leather pants and silly bulbous out of place sweaters ... well, this collection has it all!! The question is why. Oh yeah and the ridiculous wheelies ... why?

What needs to be done here is that someone needs to make this collection fit together, if that’s possible, and unite all the disparate elements that are being presented. Right now it looks like everybody got 5 or 6 looks to design and their job was done. Nothing coalesces, nothing or very little has any elegance or polish and what it all proves is money  cannot make you a designer or give you the knowledge necessary to present a meaningful collection. Some well-placed magazine ads may provide an aura surrounding the brand but it surely provides no substance here.

And by the way ... ditch the “Adrian” hood as it is just ludicrous at this point and gives the clothes a retro moment that is hardly anything other than dramatic. In fact, is that’s the take away, then “Houston… we have a problem!” why bother with the pretense of a name if what you really design is Goga … a collection that money can buy!

Go back and re-read the intro … as right now we have Project Runway ... the Goga Edition