Almost every single review of the past women’s collections
and now men’s has spent some time discussing the Omni-ambi-bi-a-sexuality of
that collection but not here! What needs to be spoken of here is that in the 60s
and 70s when some men were focused and eagerly awaiting the newest creations
from International Male, Ah Men, Lew Magram or the back pages of Esquire and GQ. The end result was
the same, all in search of those sexy, possibly taboo, articles of clothing
that more than exemplified, or maybe that’s overstated, the peacock eras of
menswear. In a way these catalogs and ads were oddly prescient as is evidenced in
the current Burberry Prorsum collection for Spring 2016.
Christopher Bailey flexes his gender bending brand muscle
with his heavy and almost all inclusive use of lace. Some of it, well to me,
very little of it, is appealing despite its press worthiness. What was most intriguing
to me was the standard chesterfield coat with lace replacing velvet and the
addition of the lace to a very standard issue trench, and then there were a few
quilted pieces which were especially appealing along with the cashmere joggers,
the tasseled loafer, long scarves and the new giraffe print.
This is a collection based solely on fabrication and not
much more. Yes great jackets and outerwear but that is a given in any Burberry
collection. What I found to be most intriguing here is that the collection had some
sort of nerdy 50s vibe that was built on short sleeved shirts, narrow ties and
tie bars, geeky color combinations and high water pants. Yes the joggers are
lust worthy and very few of the lace pieces the same but as a whole ….yawning!!!!
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