Tuesday, June 16, 2015

Burberry Prorsum .. by Christopher Bailey ... men's spring 2016



Almost every single review of the past women’s collections and now men’s has spent some time discussing the Omni-ambi-bi-a-sexuality of that collection but not here! What needs to be spoken of here is that in the 60s and 70s when some men were focused and eagerly awaiting the newest creations from International Male, Ah Men, Lew Magram or the back pages of Esquire and GQ. The end result was the same, all in search of those sexy, possibly taboo, articles of clothing that more than exemplified, or maybe that’s overstated, the peacock eras of menswear. In a way these catalogs and ads were oddly prescient as is evidenced in the current Burberry Prorsum collection for Spring 2016.



Christopher Bailey flexes his gender bending brand muscle with his heavy and almost all inclusive use of lace. Some of it, well to me, very little of it, is appealing despite its press worthiness. What was most intriguing to me was the standard chesterfield coat with lace replacing velvet and the addition of the lace to a very standard issue trench, and then there were a few quilted pieces which were especially appealing along with the cashmere joggers, the tasseled loafer, long scarves and the new giraffe print.



This is a collection based solely on fabrication and not much more. Yes great jackets and outerwear but that is a given in any Burberry collection. What I found to be most intriguing here is that the collection had some sort of nerdy 50s vibe that was built on short sleeved shirts, narrow ties and tie bars, geeky color combinations and high water pants. Yes the joggers are lust worthy and very few of the lace pieces the same but as a whole ….yawning!!!!