Friday, June 26, 2015

Maison Margiela spring 2016 men's by John Galliano



Being flummoxed and befuddled cannot disguise what was presented. In a seismic shift... at least for me... Spring at Maison Margiela is almost shockingly tasteful and wearable save the pieces that are supposedly attributable to or reminiscent of the namesake designer. The question that arises is this … "am I just so disgusted and bored with what’s been show on the majority of runways that even this yawn of a collection looks good or is the collection really as good as it looks?”


Having never been a Margiela fan… ever... it is difficult to assess the collection other than on face value. The tailoring is beautifully executed, the duster coats are perfection and the precision of the suitings is worthy of any “tailored” brand BUT, the question is... “Does anyone come to Margiela for that?” in my mind, there should have been the aura of Galliano or a presence but such is not the case unless it is the tailoring that has become his signature here and not his sense of fantasy. It saddens me to even bring up Galliano as he is no longer an eponymous brand but neither has he really established his imprimatur on this brand; unless of course that’s the idea!


So... like it? … Yes! …  Love it? … No … Surprised? Yes... groundbreaking? No... But thank god it wasn’t some mad scientist’s or some student’s vision of what menswear should be! Raw edges and a few jackets tied around the waist are not exactly flourishes that leave one breathless oh ... and those sheer collage shells!