Sunday, June 14, 2015

Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen .. men's spring 2016



Whether this collection is to my liking is totally beside the point. What Sarah Burton demonstrates so skillfully here is that so called trends, inspirations and signatures can be effectively put to use without looking like a freak show or the 4th ring of a 3 ring circus.

Obviously there is a navigational, map, marine, discovery undercurrent here and the cartoonish “drawn on “medals, as in “admirals brass n braid,” of which the technique is  a continuation that we have seen for a few seasons now in both women’s and men’s. Then there is this pajama trend that seems to be so called ”trending” and again it is so much less offensive here than in what we have seen so far. There are mill engraving prints which fit perfectly with the PJ theme and then the balls out graphic prints which are polar opposites of each other. One could say that McQueen is full of contradictions but always travelling a straight line. Oh yes, and let’s not forget the barbed wire print which is utilized so deftly as to just accept without question of any inferences, connotation or implication.



A discussion of fashion these days would not be complete without the topic of so called gender bending or what comes to mind is unisex! Bracelet or ¾ length sleeves, ruffles, spencer jackets, cropped pants and even culottes look strangely at home in this collection. Once again, this is not luck; this is unadulterated skill that enables Sarah Burton to unleash a collection like this. Much of what is shown owes a great debt to the fact that the collection is NOT over styled. So many who have already shown or might have infused a collection like this with either naval personnel images or worse yet Captain Hook interpretations which would land the collection in the design school project category.  There is no mistake here in that this is business and not some design student’s idea nor some stylists wet dream of what spring 2016 should look like.



Kudos to SB... BTW there are some amazing pieces here once a collection like this is dissected and examined and yet is the sum of its parts that is thematic and not necessarily each piece! And the tailoring sublime