Rome... the eternal city! In this case Rome was the
birthplace of Valentino so it was fitting that this Haute Couture show or Alta
Moda, as it is called in Italy, was probably the best show that Maria Grazia
Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have ever set forth. Please do not think that
this show was the greatest thing since sliced white, but for the brand and its
team, this was a landmark show especially ever since they took the reins.
This was a show and collection that did everything that it
was supposed to in terms of what one expects from a presentation of this ilk.
The clothes are as always impeccably produced and for the first time in my
memory the dresses were not of the over embroidered, over embellished and
overly monastic varieties. The collection came alive when shown against a light
bright surrounding rather than the usual brooding and lugubrious dreary dark
atmospheres that have become as much their signature as their unmade up and scrubbed
clean virginal models. Today, one saw young ladies who were wearing makeup
albeit their hair not exactly coiffed and of course those flat shoes... in this
case... gladiator sandals! Do you see where this is headed? My thought was … what
would have happened if the mannequins were properly coiffed and shod... a whole
different sort of vibe and slickness would have been exuded?
There were references to the gladiator days of Rome, to the marble
tile work in some of Rome’s greatest cathedrals, palazzos and churches and even
references to the arched façade of the Coliseum … to name a few. One might even
say that these Roman goddesses wore golden wreaths on their heads that were
reminiscent of the glory days of Julius Caesar. These were the Roman army of Goddesses
or possibly the gladiators of Valentino.
The show and clothes were less funereal and monastic than usual,
as said before, and benefitted greatly by the use of silk velvet which surely
upped the luxe quotient. Even the black pieces in velvet were lush. Of course
Chiuri and Piccioli offered their de rigeur lace and transparent pieces which
seem redundant, if not a bit tired, as
their constant use of it makes so much seem... oh that again! The black on
black pieces were especially chic as were a few of the feathered numbers outstanding.
Yes, the workrooms of the house got a good workout but that’s not unusual here.
Where were the beaded pieces, the satin duchesses, the taffetas and nary a bow
in site!? BTW yes it was red but not Valentino red!
What was missing, was day clothes, save a couple of coats, a
red one in particular that should have had 2 braided closures not 3 and a black
on black cape. As usual, the lace and tulle pieces are barely discernible from
season to season and while I am always preaching consistency and signature,
these clothes cannot be assigned a season from where they originate or in terms of newness. While we are at it, this
was a collection that was all about long as there surely were not many short
hemlines to be found.
In the end, this was a stellar collection, FOR THEM, as it was
departure from what has become their norm. Yes, some standout out pieces and
yes some real clunkers but mostly pretty clothes where editing and more grown
up styling might have brought the show over the top.
PS.. is it me or is there so sex appeal about these clothes?
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