Sunday, September 20, 2015

Gareth Pugh ... Spring 2016 ....LFW



Whether or not he models’ heads serve a purpose or are part of the designer’s inspiration , they creep me out so it’s best to point that out now and never mention it again and extract that from any part of the review. (Sort of a cross between Divine, a drag queen and a clown)
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So … Let’s talk clothes! Why did it occur to me that if Ralph Lauren was incarnated as an of the moment London designer he might be have been Gareth Pugh … so maybe that’s a stretch! Maybe it’s the red and white, maybe the tailored pierces and maybe it’s the simplicity of so much of this collection. It is most definitely not the second skin latex, the fish scale paillettes ((which are really coins to look like paillettes) or the transparencies that scream RL.
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My fascination with Pugh is that he is a designer who designs and continually flexes his muscle and prowess season after season. His body of work is extraordinary as he has shown us that indeed he is a designer who has the talent and the chops but has no desire to be another me too in the sea of sameness that pervades the world of fashion.
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There are a few pieces like the huge bow ( Dior/YSL?) one shoulder and the red paillette sprinkled trench coat that make me believe that this young man still has an arsenal of ideas and fashion artillery that has yet to be used to its fullest extent or even tapped into. Of late, unfortunately, we get to see young designers who want to fit in rather than stand out; the ones who want to stand out do so in the most outrageous and absurd ways rather than via deft of hand and..  Well... common sense like these clothes have to sell to someone so I can stay in business.
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The trick here is overlook the theatrics and focus on what’s really the reason for the show and that CLOTHES!
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