Wednesday, September 23, 2015

Gucci Spring 2016 MFW



Ciao Milano! Well the Milanese clown car has found its driver! Bienvenuti!
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So if at first you don’t succeed. Try, try again but this time, you “borrow” from Roberta di Camerino, Jeremy Scott, Jeremy Scott for Moschino, Franco Moschino, Dolce and Gabbana and present day Valentino or Susie Wong just to name a few. The obvious overuse of trompe-l’oeil is well overused to say the least, yes, this is geeky school girl chic but the problem is that those who can afford the hefty price tags don’t want to look as if they fell out of a comic strip!
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So yes, you couldn’t help but notice the western references, the 70s references including belly warmer neckties and YES that’s what they were called, and all the bells and whistles that accompany or are part of this explosion of so called fashion. Who wouldn’t want ruffle hemmed cropped pants, a pleated python skirt matched to a palm frond peek a boo camisole or a short sleeved unlined green lace waitress or stewardess uniform? I ask you... they’ll just be lining up! So many amazingly puzzling looks!
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If one is honest and realistic beyond what this  collection is and who designed it, one can’t help but say the silhouettes are awfully “molto signora” and if you put linings in so much of these concoctions or confections, they start to be very so what or maybe very all hallows eve! The silver lining for the brand is that they sell lots more than clothes. Some of the handbags will no doubt be “it” bags or even be considered status bags for those who are still into that sort of thing. A lot of ladies might be happy with the more sensible shoes and the aspirational millennials will want the platforms. This  designer has done wonders for the optical division as well as reviving the double G belt and the green and red striping.
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It is possible that the brand will breathe some new life but IMHO it won’t be because of the clothes. The ATM’s of fashion are drooling over the prospect of ad dollars it costs to pump up the sleepy brand until it finds its new footing. If you noticed the ad pages for the supposedly wildly groundbreaking fall collection increased at least 50% and probably more ... you figure it out!

P.S. much to his credit... the designer did tone down the models to a more sophisticated level and nto so freakish