Tuesday, September 15, 2015

Thom Browne Spring 2016 NYFW



What immediately comes to my mind is that we, as a business, want to celebrate arcane interpretations of fashion, rare talents that can only be considered masterful, and the joy of seeing fashion taken to the limit, and then we need only to look as far as Thom Browne.

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Do not misunderstand my words, in no way does this mean that Spring 2016 is a hands down 5 star collection but what it does is show is the dichotomy of fashion as well the polar opposites of those who have talent and those who only think they do because of some misguided hype. For instance, Mr. Browne and a Mr. Oliver both take riffs on school uniforms. It is my opinion that one of them is bullshitting you and the other is actually doing what he says he is doing. Rant over!
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Thom Browne, like the clothes or not, is a master when it comes to tailoring, engineering, fabrications and constructing clothes like no other designer in America. Again, these are not exactly easy to understand clothes but they are covetable in their exquisite workmanship, construction, finish and realization. The fabrics are like no other. The trend is the Thom Browne trend or maybe it is the Thom Browne cult. Maybe he doesn’t get the hype of, pardon the names, a Hedi or a Raf, but this man could "sew circles" around them blindfolded with just one collection.

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Yes, yes it may all sound hypocritical of me to say all this since my standard spiel includes you have to sell clothes in order to stay in business but that doesn’t negate the creativity, conceptualization and realization of a collection. Browne’s presentations are his way of driving home the point of each collection and not just a dramatic moment given to the venue, front row or props. In other words, Browne has a genuine purpose/reason other than hype and one upmanship.

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Browne’s clothes invite tactile contact. You want to touch them, turn them inside out and most of all you want to dissect what is there. It is a bit inconceivable that women are walking around decked out head to toe in TB, but it is most possible that there are women who MUST have something from this stand out designer. The jackets are razor sharp and works of art on their own despite the theme but you just know there are hidden treasures under every jacket as you peel away the layers.
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So in spite of my usual blah blah blah about fashion, the art and craft thereof, we need to prioritize great talent and spare those who are  excuses for talent. Really amazingly creatively designed clothes are not on a level playing field when compared to those who talk more than they can do!! If you get my drift!
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