Thursday, January 7, 2016

Armani, Mugler & Lanvin Pre-fall 2016



Lanvin is officially a brand with no designer and no reason. To be blunt, it is just a freakin mess! Alber was such a breath of fresh air when he started and slowly he devolved into just another me too hype grabbing wannabe and that is terribly sad for him and brand. Always believing that where there is smoke there is fire, it has been common knowledge in fashion circles that the brand is and has been for sale but no one wants it and after a collection like this with no real designer... well I say au revoir and do not mistake that for a bientôt! C’est triste! Oui? Save for a few pieces there is not much to talk about but when one uses Rosie Assoulin as a jumping off point...pfffft … it’s  time to call it a day kids!
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CLICK ON THE IMAGE TO ENLARGE.. if you dare

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Now we come to Mugler by David Koma who has actually and literally reimagined the brand for the 21st century. Hard as it is to conceive that a new designer has been loyal and cognizant of a brand's heritage but he has successfully accomplished what so few can neither do or comprehend. Whether this is a financial success is not known yet but there is an acceptance by retailers even though there is no ad budget and no excessive hype. The clothes are a lot of Mugler as in Thierry, a touch of Alaia and yes sexy and body conscious. No! These are not clothes for everyone but neither was the brand in its original incarnation and Koma has even managed to add a degree of chic. To my eye, David Koma proves and asserts and that  this is a REIMAGINED  brand and not just  a name/brand slapped on some me too collection of rags!
 
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It saddens me greatly when someone like Giorgio Armani bows or cows to popular trends and styles a collection with some bed headed models and anklets. For someone who has always been flagrantly anti-trend this is not something that befits the designer nor the brand. Yes, there is tailoring BUT no there is no chic here. In fact, there is a wee bit too much of me too in this collection which, in my opinion, will not resonate with the Armani client. Once again, just because you style it this way or adjust hems and use all sorts of trickery, the fact remains that all you do is kid yourself . This is Armani and to do what he has done degrades the brand and truly cheapens it. The only upside was that there was no runway presentation as that would have been the ultimate laughing stock.
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CLICK ON THE IMAGE TO ENLARGE.. if you dare

CLICK ON THE IMAGE TO ENLARGE.. if you dare