Friday, January 22, 2016

Dries Van Noten men's Paris fall 2016



I never quite understand how reviewers fixate on a venue and production rather than speak to the reason they attend these shows and that is to see CLOTHES and not to critique front rows, stage productions or venue. Yes kids, critics or reviewers or whatever they are, seem to fixate on other aspects of a show rather than on the reason they have been sent and given a seat.

 
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Van Noten is a fabric man. He is the big picture kind of guy who operates independently of anyone else and without any “oligarchic” (yes it’s a word) influences. What Van Noten evokes in a show like this is luxe. It is not a term usually used to describe a men’s collection and yet that’s what I see. I might even go so far as to say there is something very Klimt-like happening here; maybe it’s the color combinations, maybe it is the gold and all the bullion patches and yes maybe it’s his use of fur!
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Of course, one would have to be blind to not see all the military references but yet Van Noten never overplays his hand. I can’t pretend to say I am a fan or that I really understand the MO but I can understand and admire the allure of a collection like this even if it’s not personally to my liking.

 
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Back to Van Noten being a fabric guy; well just look at the prints, whether they are printed or woven, the end result sets him apart from the flock and that’s a good thing. Not being a trend watcher myself, there is a certain joy that comes from watching a designer’s output that actually shows off  his design prowess and who is content in his own skin.
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