Saturday, January 16, 2016

Fall men's Milan ... Zegna, Ports 1961, Costume National



Well maybe it was the palette. Maybe it was one of the extremely rare times that I can say the models for the most part were hot. Maybe it is just because there were some great pieces that can be worn by those who really have great style. I know it wasn’t the cropped pants or another bomber jacket. I know it wasn’t the faux stylized Japanese prints. I just know that there was something about this polished Ports 1961 presentation that spoke to me as fashion... albeit fashion without a brand but fashion.
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If there is one complaint about Zegna,  it would be that the casting of the show is silly and worse than that it is foolish. These clothes deserve to be shown on med not pubescent teen agers but men who look like men. So Pilati, a man of nuance, is all about a subtle almost Armani-ish palette, a more relaxed silhouette and pleated pants. The designer has reimagined the brand and catapulted it forward to a brand that now has fashion under its awning instead of just wardrobe staples for the well-heeled man. And yes, the Zegna DNA is intact and the designer has put his imprimatur on the heritage brand without making it look foolish. Pilati is a fabric man and yes it shows and it shows off his skill as a designer who designs rather than some piker who thinks they invented thread.
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Costume National, Ennio Capasa, does what Hedi wishes he could do and that is to design beautifully made sexy clothes for men who want to look hot and cool not like some wannabe rocker strong out on heroin. To be 30 years younger, I would be all over these clothes provided of course I had the lifestyle to wear them. This is a collection with obvious niche appeal that serves the fashion enlightened rather than the trendoids.  And yes, I believe that the client harbors some inner rock start which is great and now they have what to wear without looking like they are wearing their kids’ clothes. Sadly it is my belief that these designers are really doing themselves a disservice by casting these young boys who look barely old enough to shave.
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