Sunday, January 17, 2016

Milan Fall 2016 .. Jil.. Versace.. Ralph



Versace: Donatellamommamia is at it again! Apparently she just can’t help herself when it comes to going over the top and beating a theme to death. If one silver space suit or one white jacket or coat was good then 10 is better, if one lavender/orchid colored piece is good then 5 is better and then of course the gimmicks. Gianni was all about design, tailoring, fabric and sex while Donatellamommamia wants attention and that would be any kind of attention. Rather than expanding the freakishness of the collection why can't she expand on those classic Versace Hermes like prints that catapulted him into the spotlight? Doncha think there are enough motorcycle jackets out there, or track pants, or LED lit up clothes? Don’t you think it would have been quite something if she really expanded the tailored segment of the show and offered a variety of silhouettes? Apparently one more time, there must be a new design team that favors track pants, tights and NASA! You really have to wonder if any of them know there was a Gianni Versace! BTW, the casting of models is far better than the past but the styling... well not so much.PS. And those pussycat sweaters... REALLY?
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Jil Sander: well, the DNA of the brand is present and accounted for with this collection but there is such a thing as pushing the envelope a bit too far like quilted flight suits, or using the signature “gay” nylon bomber of the 70s in its original color and then there were those ghastly padded nylon pants which made me sweat just thinking of wearing them and oh yeah a tad too much leather. Rodolfo Paglialunga is surely traveling down the right path including the improvement of his casting... not much but better but less nubile. The collection was minimal, precise, contained that hard edge all within a limited in palette. My opinion here is that he testing the waters and massaging the DNA which will hopefully really restore the luster. PS that military thing and the harnesses... it’s enough already and you might want to rethink the jumpsuit thing!
 
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Ralph Lauren (Purple Label): here’s the thing... Ralph is Ralph and even this segment of the collection empire will never set the world afire but there comes a time when you might think to yourself oh again and still and really! Is it beautiful... yes! Is it exquisitely made... yes! There are no surprises here, it is more Ralph tweaked ever so slightly for the season. Yes, there is this sports theme undertone as well the apparent cowboy predilection but basically it is just Ralph doing Ralph… again! And yet there is no doubt in my mind that this will sell far better and wider than most of the collections shown during this round of shows.
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