Friday, January 8, 2016

pre-fall 2016 Philipp Plein & BOSS



Philipp Plein took a 180 this season as it is possible he had exhausted the world’s stud supply with his previous collections or possibly he has decided that he needs to go a more commercial route. For the most part, gone are the studs and gone are the hard core biker chick/rocker girl looks that previously flooded his collections and even the skull has all but disappeared . Don’t get me wrong, he hasn’t abandoned his DNA as much as he has just massaged it and interpreted that DNA in a different way; less overt sexy and a lot less costumey or maybe hookerish. Some of the shapes will be familiar, some much more grown up and wearable and some new. There is a definite fascination with lace, with butterflies and with his signature prints. What will be most interesting is if this is a precursor to what is to come or if this is just a one shot wonder.
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Jason Wu has decided that BOSS is the 21st century’s answer to the original Jil Sander. It is spare, minimal, hard edged, rather commercial and with a limited color palette. There is this aura of architectural and somewhat of a sterile feeling that comes with such minimalism. Maybe he is right to take this tack as the fashion world is starting to look like the linen department with tonnage of white sheets turned into wearing apparel and when so many collections look they have been designed by one communal design team. One can say it is wearable but certainly not exciting but just maybe he has taken to ascribe to the original genesis of early fall and that was to sell clothes with no fanfare and no design fireworks. Pre-fall was the appetizer to the regular Fall seaon which is the course dinner.
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