Sunday, February 28, 2016

Salvatore Ferragamo Fall 2016 MFW



Well, I’m onto this no trend is the trend concept. While the fashion world is romancing black and fur one more time for fall 2016, Massimiliano Giornetti has decided Salvatore Ferragamo will be about color and I mean smack you in the face color with winter white and black as the palette cleansers.
 
click image to enlarge
Admittedly the first viewing of the collecting is a bit jarring, but upon a second more incisive look, the clothes are a stand-alone beautiful expression of what happens when designers design and speak to their clientele and not look over their shoulder.
 
click image to enlarge
Okay, so let us speak of the pinked/reptilian/ rick rack edging or seaming, buttons as ornamentation, pleating, horizontal color blocking, zippers, layers/tiers and knits ... oh yeah COLOR! All of these elements add up to a collection that has great polish and yet there is an artsy craftsy edge to it that gives it a dose of light heartedness as well as serious superb craftsmanship. Knits are happening every way imaginable, zippers are releasing and embellishing, and the chevron patterning is just knocking your socks off. The collection as a whole is extremely graphic and bold which is something that few will ever attempt. Without question this is also a collection that is feminine in the way that it focuses on the waist as well as being more on the body conscious side rather than the pervasive 3 sizes too big concept.
 
click image to enlarge
To my eyes, this is a less serious Ferragamo and maybe it is because fashion as a whole has taken itself way too seriously lately with far too much blah blah blah and not enough of what actually backs up these iterations. This is a collection that will speak from the racks and it will beckon the client to buy or at the very least to try on. Some of the shoes are fabulous as well as the patterned boots but, for me, the mink shoe could have been left on the drawing board even if it does seem a bit kitschy at this point. On the other hand the mink bags are wonderfully fun as is the handbag category in general.
 
click image to enlarge
My only regret is that Giornetti didn’t take this season to reprise his excruciatingly beautiful fall 2011 collection  that was of similar graphic quality. Giornetti has proven himself to be a more than a worthy/capable designer in both men’s and women’s and each season he affords us another chapter in the evolution of the brand under his tutelage.
click image to enlarge

PS ... take note that there is very little evening wear in the collection and this is surely a reaction to the fact that so many designers have focused on evening and tossed aside  the daywear category.