Friday, June 24, 2016

Dries van Noten men's spring 2017



If there is a word that might describe the entire it could be ... Fluid! Since every collection of his is approached as a singular moment, rather than an evolution, this collection spoke to me. Without equivocation, it can be said I am rarely if ever a fan of arts and crafts looking clothes as they always look exactly like the descriptors BUT within this collection, I find those knits quite palatable if not intriguing.
 
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click image to enlarge

The loose liquid pant is prevalent, the tailoring is there but in a relaxed way and not in some Vetements nightmare way, the camouflage mixed with 19th century “art” prints and then the surprise of the graphic black and white. To me this is fashion; it is designed, conceived, rendered and doesn’t matter what the inspirations as the clothes are meant to speak for themselves and can be appreciated for what they are without all the blah blah . There are subtleties in coloration and pattern and there are stark contrasts like the stiffness of the trapunto stitching against the soft pant but never ever can you say a Dries  collections is trendy. By the way. Those 2 tunics that look like oil cloth … well not so much!
 
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click image to enlarge

Wait!! Do not think that trends are absent from the collection  as they are addressed but in the most subtle way, for example you might see a bomber but what really attracted you is not the shape but the patterning or patterns or color mix. Dries stands alone as the clothes reflect the designer and not the zeitgeist of fashion and for that alone he should be applauded…. LOUDLY.
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