Monday, July 4, 2016

Dior haute couture fall 2016



The 3 D’s

Dumbed Down Dior... BUT …  I’ll take this over any Raf collection, any time!!

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As was said to me by someone I truly respect for their design prowess and knowledge “A few sequins and masses of 4 ply silk crepe do not couture make” to which my reply was simply that at least they have  returned to a more literal interpretation of the Bar. With that said, some of the jacketed styles, I found to be quite beautiful as well as one particular interpretation with “furled” peplum.  The sad part is that take away the tailored pieces and there isn’t much to see. 

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The clothes succeed in being quite feminine but it is blatantly apparent that these designers are either not adept enough or familiar with the importance of dresses within a collection such as this. Their idea of a dress is rather school girlish or pedestrian; case in point the Arnel looking bell sleeved print gown. 

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This was a collection known for a luxe, raffiné and lush point of view and now these aspects are absent from this maison. For far too long the absence has been palpable and there  needs to be a return to the roots of the haute couture ... think Bohan, Galliano, Dior, Ferre … think about the exquisite details, embroideries  and fabrics that are all missing from this collection. Without question, it is plainly visible that the clothes are impeccably rendered which is as it should be especially haute couture. 

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The question again arises “can haute couture be commercial? “And that haute couture should not look like a slightly enhanced pret a porter. It should be noted that for decades, haute couture was the laboratory for so many, if not all, of the heritage brands.  Each of the seasons served as hint or a foreshadowing of what might in store for us in the coming ready to wear collections.