Monday, July 4, 2016

Schiaparelli Haute couture fall 2016

Here's the thing ... This is the first season in a while that I really like this collection but there are things that prevent me from offering a rave about it. Yes, I like it, but no I do not love it.
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Yes I see that Guyon has researched the DNA of the eponymous designer as well as offered his interpretation of her and the brand he now helms. Yes, he actually exhibits the DNA of the brand which is so often over looked especially when it comes to heritage brands.
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What puzzles are the all over prints and then some of the silhouettes; Elsa Schiaparelli was known for her collaborations, her tongue in cheek humor but not really for any particular silhouette. Yes, I get it that there is a focus and emphasis on the shoulder line as well tailoring and details but my conundrum occurs when I know I am looking at haute couture yet I feel like I'm looking at pret a porter which is disturbing. Then suddenly I ask myself " can haute couture be commercial?"  and that is not meant to be a slur.
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My favorite pieces are a gold sequin degrade, the all gold gown, the Charles Jamesian quilted jacket and the cellophane fringe pieces. KUDOS to Bertrand Guyon fro staying the course and making headway towards the reinvented re-imagined Schiaparelli.
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