Sunday, September 18, 2016

Mary Katrantzou ... spring 2017 London




My first inclination is that the collections sort of echoes how the designer started with photoentric prints except this time around it is all about Greek amphorae and ancient Greek art combined with, of all things, Op art. Do I get it? Nope, but then again there is the awkward styling which making it all look like an Arab souk of eras. All of that adds up to one helluva a dizzying experience.
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click image to enlarge


The shapes are simple enough but then there is this detour into these highly ornamented “things” which are extravagantly expensive and actually, not very attractive. The best of the collection are the pieces which veer toward the simple, if simplicity can be applied to any of it. Over designed and over worked are not components of beauty rather they look like trying too hard to be different. I’m not sure how the printed chain maille got in there but then again when you design with no particular sales strategy, you throw it all against the wall to see what sticks.
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click image to enlarge


In the end, I think there are some beautiful pieces but they are outnumbered if not outweighed by what some might call monstrosities of design or a waste of time and effort. I can’t say I hated this collection nor I can say I loved it by any stretch of the imagination. One would think that a few palette cleansers would have gone a long way here instead of going into overdrive! Does visual gluttony ring a bell?
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