Tuesday, September 13, 2016

Oscar de la Renta spring 2017 NYFW



Let’s call this the transitional collection that was assembled by the studio rather than by the newly appointed designers. To my eye, what this shows is that playing it safe can be a problem. While the clothes were certainly pretty but they lacked that Oscar vitality and spark that has been consistent with the brand for decades. 
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First off, the collection was styled skewing towards earth mothers and hippies ... mistake one! Where was the urbane slickness that Oscar built into an empire? Apparently Copping was straying too far from home to remain at the helm or was it that he didn’t stray far enough? The answer really doesn’t matter as it is perfectly clear that there is very little excitement or spark to this collection and playing it safe is not the answer.
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Then of course there is the ubiquitous bare midriff that shows up a few too many times within ... mistake again! And now we come back to the blandness and over simplification of what this brand is all about. Take a for instance 2 evening gowns. First the reddish paprika colored mermaid shape with some seaming detail below the knee which was totally yawn worthy  and then the white embroidered bell skirted signature shape that looked as if the beading was yet to completed. Oscar is about embellishment but tastefully done and Oscar was NEVER boring.... so what happened?? 
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Even the though the new designers are part of the assembled studio who designed this collection, it remains to be seen if this was a foreshadowing or just a fluke of a collection on its way to the next incarnation!
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