Sunday, June 25, 2017

Vetements men's spring 2018



ALERT THE FASHION MEDIA!!.... ALERT ALL EDITORS/PUBLISHERS/ STYLISTS & RETAILERS……
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THE JOKE’S ON YOU !!!
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YOU’VE BEEN HAD!!!!
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chew on that ... would ya?
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How’s that hype feeling about now?
 

Hermès et Balmain men's spring 18




The yin and yang ….  The Spartan minimalist versus the designer from the more is better school of design.
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There comes a time when being low key rich and being overtly embarrassingly rich become unlikely competitors in a market aimed at so called fashionable men…and the word men  is used very loosely here in some cases.
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Rousteing obviously never got the memo about loose more relaxed pants when in fact some of his were so tight you might have been able to discern a model’s religion which is to say that this style aspect narrows the audience considerably. Balmain is all about the jacket and leathers ….  and by that I do not mean the tailored jacket as we know it but the over the top, balls out, look at me, everything but the kitchen sink jacket and the same goes about his leather treatments! The heavy chain bordering many jackets is an allusion the way that Chanel once weighted her jackets around the hem on the interior of her cardigan jackets. The oversized specs worn by some of the pretty boys might been an allusion to YSL, of the Yves variety and then there were the Breton/mariner stripes which were translated into grey and black done with  beads and sequins … which by the way were pretty amazing. The point is that other than the late Michael Jackson,  who might have given up little boys in exchange for closets full of these jackets,  where and who is wearing these clothes let alone who can afford them since the jackets run into the 5 figures. The workmanship is sublime, the message is clear but when one of the supposed great fashion arbiters/editrix of our times can only remark about the music after the show …. Well need I say more?
 
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Now, we move to the polar opposite where Veronique Nichanian has decided that the Hermès man needs to blend in to the point of mediocrity despite the wildly luxe materials and the over the top prices. I understand that Hermès has never been about look at me fashion and much more about being well dressed in clothes made of the finest materials and manufactured with the highest standards of craftsmanship. This season’s incarnation brings the brand to a democratization and homogenization that crosses into the banal and pedestrian while bowing to trends in an almost absurdly  slavish and needless way. I mean really girl, glossy drawstring track pants, and a preponderance of trainers on the feet with all sorts of silly oversized windbreakers/outerwear paired with almost clownishly full legged puddling pants? Me thinks Veronique either needs to rethink this direction or say it’s time for me to go. Aside from a few screamingly stratospherically expensive jackets and tops... what happen to the urbane polish that was part and parcel of the brand? Who of this income bracket is aspiring to look like one of the crowd or like a kid albeit in the most costly of ways? Hermès has never been and my guess is will never be about a “youthquake” so why debase the brand and yourself into thinking you can make that happen? One more time you need to ask yourself why fix what’s not broken?
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Saturday, June 24, 2017

Dior Homme spring 2018



March of the 16 year olds! I wonder if any of them shave yet?
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I really just don’t get the casting but once again you must behead them to see what’s proffered by this brand. Unquestionably, tailoring and hard tailoring at that is at the forefront. I’m not so sure about the puddling full legged pants but hell I’ll take them anytime over still another pair joggers or track pants.
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It is rather obvious to me that KVA has borrowed some elements from the women’s collections but god knows why other than in the quest for more cohesive cross pollenating collections.  The Dior “taping,” which now reads ATELIER for some reason and then the sleeveless coats and jackets……….. I can’t help but think what this collection might have looked if when worn by men who look like men rather than the barely prepubescent boys that paraded down the catwalk. With that said add that there might have been quite a different perception if the designer presented anything other than trainers on the models’ feet and passed on the silly shorts made even sillier by how they were shown. 
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I know I am beating that dead horse but hell why do these designers think that showing on BOYS make the clothes younger when the audience they are trying to appeal to is barely out of university and can hardly afford any of these looks in the foreseeable future. I get that you want an aspirational customer but millennials and teenagers are shopping at Zara, H&M and Uniqlo way before they ever set foot in or contemplate entering a Dior boutique or department. 
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I did find huge appeal in the tailored pieces with their razor sharp lines and mostly close to the body silhouettes; I just can’t wrap my head around the stuff like upside down PARIS and half blazer half pants and half blazer half polos.  what this seems to be is designing for design sake. What promotes and sustains the brand is the tailoring and not the gimmicks although one can be sure the tricked out pieces are the ones that will land on editorial pages most likely with the captions that read price upon request.

Parisian Bouillabaisse.. men's spring 2018



Bievenue to the marché aux puces of Paris’ men's fashion week ... maybe you want to attend the Peruvian crafts festival or a hefty  bag convention and maybe you just want to ask yourself why or just shake your head and say whatever or think of this .. maybe the output has come from a communal design studio where each brand just assigns fabrication or maybe …  the photos suffice for 27.000 wors.. you fill in he blanks
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If you want a fancy fan
Or a turkey born in Turkey-stan
Or a slave that's awfully African
Or a teapot early Ming
Come to the supermarket in old Peking
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If you want to buy a kite
Or a pup to keep you up at night
Or a dwarf who used to know Snow White
Or a frog who loves to sing
Come to the supermarket in old Peking
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They have, sunflower cakes, moonbeam cakes
Gizzard cakes, lizard cakes
Pickled eels, pickle snakes
Fit for any king
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If you want a bust of jade
Or an egg that's more or less decayed
Or in case you care to meet a maid
For a nice but naughty fling
Come to the supermarket
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If you come on an ostrich, you can park it
So come to the supermarket and see Peking
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If you want a gong to beat
Or a rickshaw with a sassy seat
Or a painting slightly indiscreet
That is simply riveting
Come to the supermarket and see Peking
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Well, if you want some calico
Or a gentle water buffalo
Or a glow worm guaranteed to glow
Or a cloak inclined to cling
Come to the supermarket in old Peking

They have bird-nest soup, seaweed soup
Noodle soup, poodle soup
Talking crows with the croup
Almost anything

If you want to buy a saw
Or a fish delicious when it's raw
Or a pill to kill your mother-in-law
Or a bee without a sting
Come to the supermarket

If you come on a turtle, you can park it
So come to the supermarket
If you come on a goose, you can park it
So come to the supermarket and see Peking