Monday, January 23, 2017

Christian Dior Haute Couture spring 2017



Well, the good news is that what’s her name has decided to forego printed tee shirts and an overabundance of sheer for couture. On the flip side, she hasn’t quite shed her Valentino days. The mind boggles that with an archive as vast as Dior and the talents that are at your fingertips how does a designer go from the funereal to the woodland nymph without skipping a beat. 
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The tailored segments (ode to the BAR) while exquisitely tailored and rendered sure do have that old lady Jolie Madame kind of vibe with those silly lengths and all-encompassing New Look silhouettes. To call any of it modern is patently absurd. What Maria Grazia Chiuri hasn’t retired is that menopausal palette that was so pervasive when she was at Valentino, likewise for her idea of prints, the cape like silhouette and that foreboding monastic aura. To say that it is all odd is an understatement as they seem to lack  an elegance and an air of refinement that is associated with the brand. 
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The collection seems to wander in no particular direction despite the so called fantasy ball theme. One has to wonder what all of it would look like without the silly headdresses and with normal shoes. Yes, no question that the clothes are perfection in terms of quality but the design is severely lacking and so is the content/direction. Who is wearing all these tulle confections with pleats and where are the divinely chic and slick clothes that might have segued from the opening exits... in essence where’s the flow,  where’s the connect and yes, couture is all about piece by piece yet the premise is still that it is shown as collection.
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In the end, it is better than expected but nowhere near what it could be. The question that always comes to mind is who is whispering in her ear? On the whole the clothes look contrived and a bit heavy handed with a mentality of throwing everything against the wall to see what sticks. Maybe what I am trying to convey is that the clothes have no grace, so much looks heavy handed …  if you catch my drift.
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PS... Can we talk about the sudden single bursts of color like grass green and tangerine … why?